5,366
edits
Changes
link update
=Overview=
This is a basic troubleshooting guide, and also an indication that the symptom you're seeing is relatively common and has been thought about, often with some basic solutions.
__TOC__
=Behavior in wet weather=
Avoid pressure-washing. Weatherproofing is much less effective against high pressure.
There are a few particularities of Zeros when they're exposed to excess moisture, particularly in heavy rain or after washing the bike.
==[[Dash Flicker|Display Flicker]]==
{{:Dash Flicker}}
==[[Belt Groan Sound|Groan Sound]]==
{{:Belt Groan Sound}}
==[[Loss of Traction]]==
{{:Loss of Traction}}
==Splash Protection==
Zero motorcycle models have a rear wheel splash guard that protects the motor and the lower electrical areas under the seat, but the wheel can fling plenty of rain and mud onto the tail and on the back of the rider.
;Solutions
: [[Zero Top Rack|OEM Top Rack]]
: [[Aftermarket#OEM_Rain_Guard|OEM Rain Guard]] applies to the tail extension; inexpensive but limited.
: [[Aftermarket#Mudguard|Another mudguard?]]
==Loss of Power==
Power cutouts can happen at many levels.
===[[Loss of 12V Power]]===
{{:Loss_of_12V_Power}}
===[[Loss of Power to Motor]]===
{{:Loss of Power to Motor}}
==[[12V Power Always On|Power Cutout Failure]]==
{{:12V Power Always On}}
=[[Loss of Range]]=
{{:Loss of Range}}
=Weak power in cold temperatures=
From EMF:
<blockquote>
: ... higher internal resistance of the battery at colder temperatures causing current limiting, ... It can be a little disconcerting when this happens right as I am trying to overtake slower vehicles.
: You can even see that in the logs.
:: You'll see entries "discharge current limited (XX%)".
:: That tells you the percentage the power (=battery current) has been limited to, because of the high voltage sag due to higher internal resistance because of the cold.
: Right behind that you will read a "MinCell" entry
:: this one tells you which cell was the weakest and caused the limitation and with what voltage.
: The limitation of power is directly related to topspeed, as you need more power the faster you ride.
</blockquote>
=Charging=
==[https://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/GFCI GFCI] Faults==
Ground fault circuit isolation outlets detect unequal currents across the hot to neutral prongs.
The [[Onboard Charger]] tends to aggravate these detectors, particularly if paired with another load on the same circuit phase in a household or building.
;Recommendation
: If GFCI faults occur regularly, charge the bike without a ground connection:
* Use a [[wikipedia:Cheater plug|cheater plug]] to mask the Zero's three-prong plug as a two-prong ungrounded plug, or
* Just break off the grounding prong in the cable plug with a pair of pliers.
==[[Charge Failure After Blink Sequence|Blinks 4 or 5 times and fails to charge]]==
{{:Charge Failure After Blink Sequence}}
==Stuck/Warm Charging Cord==
From [http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5778.msg45518#msg45518 this thread], there's a [http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5778.msg45529#msg45529 good explanation] of what can cause a power cord to get stuck/fuse.
Most charge cord recommendations focus rightly on wire gauge and length to avoid heating. A stuck cord/plug on the other hand will be due to the connectors fusing together, possibly after years of use, so it's a connection that has deteriorated to the point where it generates its own heat.
;Note
: If you are using a cord that does not meet Zero's requirements, the cord or particularly the plug may not be rated for the current (12A continuous at least), and will overheat for that reason.
;Recommendations
* Clean the contact prongs on the motorcycle's receptacle. Use something specialized for the purpose.
*: Road debris or just dirt on the prongs can increase electrical resistance and produce heat that weakens the cable plug.
* Try to avoid bending the blades of the male connector whenever possible.
*: They should be fairly well annealed brass but they will eventually fatigue.
* One preference is to have them bent inward slightly.
*: That gives a little bit of pressure between the blade and the socket which helps provide a low-resistance connection.
* Keep an eye on the strain relief on the backside of the connector.
*: If you see cracks starting to appear, you might want to replace the cord or at least get a backup so you won't be left without one when it fails.
* Be sure to always grab the molded part of the connector when disconnecting, rather than yanking on the cord.
*: Especially when the cable is warm and soft, that's a great way of pulling it apart.
==Charging Errata==
;Charging light stays on after completion (2017 model year)
: "...prior to 2017 models, the green charge indicator did go out once the bike was unplugged. For 2017 though, a component was deleted, so the light stays on until voltage in the circuit bleeds off, or the contactor is closed."
: Source: [http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6824.msg63673#msg63673 Re: Zero SR 2017. New model startup issues or just my bike?] Electric Motorcycle Forum user '''droidish''' reports on the charging indicator staying on after completion)
==[[Gen2/Calex Charger/Faulty Operation|Faulty Calex onboard charger]]==
{{:Gen2/Calex Charger/Faulty Operation}}
=Frame/Body Panels=
Prior to 2017, [[Gen2/Bodywork Material|Zero's plastic panels]]' color is molded-in and will fade with exposure to the sun over a year or two.
The battery casing will also acquire a mild kind of patina over time if left sun-exposed over a very long time.
=Front Wheel/Suspension/Steering=
==Fork Oil Leak==
Sometimes the front fork seal can leak because it gets dirty. [http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5748.msg42549#msg42549 One recommendation] is to keep a handy tool for cleaning it out quickly. [http://sealmate.net/ SealMate] has been recommended but other solutions can be equivalent.
; FastAce Left Fork Leak
: The FastAce front forks for the 2013 (and possibly 2014) are known to sometimes develop a weep/leak on the bottom of the left tube.
: The vaguely-communicated cause is the asymmetric strain of the single brake disc on that side, combined with a lack of compensating setup when installing the tubes.
: Zero tends to include this issue under normal warranty coverage, to replace the tubes, if the forks themselves develop the problem less than a year after having installed them.
==[[Gen2/Armored Front Brake Line Rerouting|DS/FX Front Brake Line Obscures Dash]]==
{{:Gen2/Armored Front Brake Line Rerouting}}
=Rear Wheel/Suspension/Belt=
If the rear wheel leaves the surface under acceleration, it can accelerate rapidly, overstressing the belt when landing. Belts have been reported broken, leading some to switch to noisy chains instead. Take care with potholes and speed bumps, it you leave the surface, lay off the throttle to avoid damaging the belt.
==[[Defective Wheel Bearings]]==
{{:Defective Wheel Bearings}}
==[[Belt Noise|Noisy Belt]]==
{{:Belt Noise}}
==[[Rear Wheel Vibration|Rear Vibration]]==
{{:Rear Wheel Vibration}}
==[[Drive Belt/Damage|Belt Damage]]==
{{:Drive Belt/Damage}}
=Brake System=
==[[Brake Squeal]]==
{{:Brake Squeal}}
==Regenerative Braking==
When starting with a full charge, downhill, with a mode that does regenerative braking, you may feel a pulsing, as the regenerative braking repeatedly engages and then disengages so as to not overcharge. 2015 and newer versions of the firmware appear to soften or eliminate this effect. Using sport mode intentionally for the length of a block appears to be enough to start using regenerative braking.
Regenerative braking is only enabled in the speed range of about 8 mph to 70 mph (could vary slightly depending on model). If you go faster or slower, even in a mode with regeneration enabled, it will not turn on until your speed falls within that range.
When braking, it can be effective to apply the brake lightly, just enough to activate the taillight, well ahead of time. This minimizes brake pad wear while improving range (in Eco mode or Custom mode, depending on regenerative braking settings).
==Parking on Hills==
Lacking a clutch and transmission, a Zero offers no built-in support for preventing a parked motorcycle from rolling downhill.
Solutions:
* [http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_4&products_id=205 OEM brake lever lock]
* Double-sided velcro loop.
* [http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/motorcycle-lock/grip-lock/ Grip Lock] is a security device for locking the throttle and front brake.
* [http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_4&products_id=243 Zero Parking Brake Kit]
*: The 2017 Owner's Manual explicitly describes a Parking Brake accessory and shows how to operate it (paddle on the right handlebar side that operates a rear brake caliper).
*: It became available in mid-2017 but seems to fit 2014+ S platform models and 2015+ X platform models.
=Motor/Controller=
==Low SoC==
For 2014 and earlier S/DS/SR models, power is reduced below 15% battery charge, and may cut out at or below 10%.
The controller is definitely reducing power to protect the battery when its voltage is reduced.
One point of confusion is why power cuts back before 0%. It may to be due to individual cels being fully discharged too soon. Turning the bike off for a minute and then turning it on may allow using the bike for a few more miles at very slow speeds and power in order to limp home, because the lowest cel should temporarily rebound in voltage enough to satisfy the battery protection logic even though the cell will not produce power and will strongly limit what can be done with the battery until recharged.
Models with fewer battery bricks like the FX will cut back power much sooner near 50% battery charge because each cell has a greater impact on the entire power pack.
2015 models experience this trouble less acutely, and 2016 models seem willing to continue travel at 0% for up to several miles. The implication is that the cells are much more robust in these battery generations, and an abnormally low individual cell is very unlikely.
If there is an emergency need to operate to motorcycle this way, use the battery voltage display in the mobile app to understand how far away you are from the battery being completely unusable.
In any case, running the battery charge this low should be followed immediately by charging to prevent damaging the battery, and it may reduce overall battery lifetime if performed regularly.
==[[Overheating]]==
{{:Overheating}}
=Battery/Chargers=
==Hot Weather Charging==
On a hot day, or with rapid chargers, the battery may get hot when charging.
;Recommendations
* You can use the app to detect this condition.
* Charge in the shade, when possible, with good ventilation.
* A half cover or stretch-cover can help make shade.
=Electrical System=
==[[Hazard Lights Interfere With Turn Signals]]==
{{:Hazard Lights Interfere With Turn Signals}}
=App and Bluetooth=
See the [[Official Mobile Application]] page under [[Official Mobile Application#Common_Problems|Common Problems]].
This is a basic troubleshooting guide, and also an indication that the symptom you're seeing is relatively common and has been thought about, often with some basic solutions.
__TOC__
=Behavior in wet weather=
Avoid pressure-washing. Weatherproofing is much less effective against high pressure.
There are a few particularities of Zeros when they're exposed to excess moisture, particularly in heavy rain or after washing the bike.
==[[Dash Flicker|Display Flicker]]==
{{:Dash Flicker}}
==[[Belt Groan Sound|Groan Sound]]==
{{:Belt Groan Sound}}
==[[Loss of Traction]]==
{{:Loss of Traction}}
==Splash Protection==
Zero motorcycle models have a rear wheel splash guard that protects the motor and the lower electrical areas under the seat, but the wheel can fling plenty of rain and mud onto the tail and on the back of the rider.
;Solutions
: [[Zero Top Rack|OEM Top Rack]]
: [[Aftermarket#OEM_Rain_Guard|OEM Rain Guard]] applies to the tail extension; inexpensive but limited.
: [[Aftermarket#Mudguard|Another mudguard?]]
==Loss of Power==
Power cutouts can happen at many levels.
===[[Loss of 12V Power]]===
{{:Loss_of_12V_Power}}
===[[Loss of Power to Motor]]===
{{:Loss of Power to Motor}}
==[[12V Power Always On|Power Cutout Failure]]==
{{:12V Power Always On}}
=[[Loss of Range]]=
{{:Loss of Range}}
=Weak power in cold temperatures=
From EMF:
<blockquote>
: ... higher internal resistance of the battery at colder temperatures causing current limiting, ... It can be a little disconcerting when this happens right as I am trying to overtake slower vehicles.
: You can even see that in the logs.
:: You'll see entries "discharge current limited (XX%)".
:: That tells you the percentage the power (=battery current) has been limited to, because of the high voltage sag due to higher internal resistance because of the cold.
: Right behind that you will read a "MinCell" entry
:: this one tells you which cell was the weakest and caused the limitation and with what voltage.
: The limitation of power is directly related to topspeed, as you need more power the faster you ride.
</blockquote>
=Charging=
==[https://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/GFCI GFCI] Faults==
Ground fault circuit isolation outlets detect unequal currents across the hot to neutral prongs.
The [[Onboard Charger]] tends to aggravate these detectors, particularly if paired with another load on the same circuit phase in a household or building.
;Recommendation
: If GFCI faults occur regularly, charge the bike without a ground connection:
* Use a [[wikipedia:Cheater plug|cheater plug]] to mask the Zero's three-prong plug as a two-prong ungrounded plug, or
* Just break off the grounding prong in the cable plug with a pair of pliers.
==[[Charge Failure After Blink Sequence|Blinks 4 or 5 times and fails to charge]]==
{{:Charge Failure After Blink Sequence}}
==Stuck/Warm Charging Cord==
From [http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5778.msg45518#msg45518 this thread], there's a [http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5778.msg45529#msg45529 good explanation] of what can cause a power cord to get stuck/fuse.
Most charge cord recommendations focus rightly on wire gauge and length to avoid heating. A stuck cord/plug on the other hand will be due to the connectors fusing together, possibly after years of use, so it's a connection that has deteriorated to the point where it generates its own heat.
;Note
: If you are using a cord that does not meet Zero's requirements, the cord or particularly the plug may not be rated for the current (12A continuous at least), and will overheat for that reason.
;Recommendations
* Clean the contact prongs on the motorcycle's receptacle. Use something specialized for the purpose.
*: Road debris or just dirt on the prongs can increase electrical resistance and produce heat that weakens the cable plug.
* Try to avoid bending the blades of the male connector whenever possible.
*: They should be fairly well annealed brass but they will eventually fatigue.
* One preference is to have them bent inward slightly.
*: That gives a little bit of pressure between the blade and the socket which helps provide a low-resistance connection.
* Keep an eye on the strain relief on the backside of the connector.
*: If you see cracks starting to appear, you might want to replace the cord or at least get a backup so you won't be left without one when it fails.
* Be sure to always grab the molded part of the connector when disconnecting, rather than yanking on the cord.
*: Especially when the cable is warm and soft, that's a great way of pulling it apart.
==Charging Errata==
;Charging light stays on after completion (2017 model year)
: "...prior to 2017 models, the green charge indicator did go out once the bike was unplugged. For 2017 though, a component was deleted, so the light stays on until voltage in the circuit bleeds off, or the contactor is closed."
: Source: [http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6824.msg63673#msg63673 Re: Zero SR 2017. New model startup issues or just my bike?] Electric Motorcycle Forum user '''droidish''' reports on the charging indicator staying on after completion)
==[[Gen2/Calex Charger/Faulty Operation|Faulty Calex onboard charger]]==
{{:Gen2/Calex Charger/Faulty Operation}}
=Frame/Body Panels=
Prior to 2017, [[Gen2/Bodywork Material|Zero's plastic panels]]' color is molded-in and will fade with exposure to the sun over a year or two.
The battery casing will also acquire a mild kind of patina over time if left sun-exposed over a very long time.
=Front Wheel/Suspension/Steering=
==Fork Oil Leak==
Sometimes the front fork seal can leak because it gets dirty. [http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5748.msg42549#msg42549 One recommendation] is to keep a handy tool for cleaning it out quickly. [http://sealmate.net/ SealMate] has been recommended but other solutions can be equivalent.
; FastAce Left Fork Leak
: The FastAce front forks for the 2013 (and possibly 2014) are known to sometimes develop a weep/leak on the bottom of the left tube.
: The vaguely-communicated cause is the asymmetric strain of the single brake disc on that side, combined with a lack of compensating setup when installing the tubes.
: Zero tends to include this issue under normal warranty coverage, to replace the tubes, if the forks themselves develop the problem less than a year after having installed them.
==[[Gen2/Armored Front Brake Line Rerouting|DS/FX Front Brake Line Obscures Dash]]==
{{:Gen2/Armored Front Brake Line Rerouting}}
=Rear Wheel/Suspension/Belt=
If the rear wheel leaves the surface under acceleration, it can accelerate rapidly, overstressing the belt when landing. Belts have been reported broken, leading some to switch to noisy chains instead. Take care with potholes and speed bumps, it you leave the surface, lay off the throttle to avoid damaging the belt.
==[[Defective Wheel Bearings]]==
{{:Defective Wheel Bearings}}
==[[Belt Noise|Noisy Belt]]==
{{:Belt Noise}}
==[[Rear Wheel Vibration|Rear Vibration]]==
{{:Rear Wheel Vibration}}
==[[Drive Belt/Damage|Belt Damage]]==
{{:Drive Belt/Damage}}
=Brake System=
==[[Brake Squeal]]==
{{:Brake Squeal}}
==Regenerative Braking==
When starting with a full charge, downhill, with a mode that does regenerative braking, you may feel a pulsing, as the regenerative braking repeatedly engages and then disengages so as to not overcharge. 2015 and newer versions of the firmware appear to soften or eliminate this effect. Using sport mode intentionally for the length of a block appears to be enough to start using regenerative braking.
Regenerative braking is only enabled in the speed range of about 8 mph to 70 mph (could vary slightly depending on model). If you go faster or slower, even in a mode with regeneration enabled, it will not turn on until your speed falls within that range.
When braking, it can be effective to apply the brake lightly, just enough to activate the taillight, well ahead of time. This minimizes brake pad wear while improving range (in Eco mode or Custom mode, depending on regenerative braking settings).
==Parking on Hills==
Lacking a clutch and transmission, a Zero offers no built-in support for preventing a parked motorcycle from rolling downhill.
Solutions:
* [http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_4&products_id=205 OEM brake lever lock]
* Double-sided velcro loop.
* [http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/motorcycle-lock/grip-lock/ Grip Lock] is a security device for locking the throttle and front brake.
* [http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_4&products_id=243 Zero Parking Brake Kit]
*: The 2017 Owner's Manual explicitly describes a Parking Brake accessory and shows how to operate it (paddle on the right handlebar side that operates a rear brake caliper).
*: It became available in mid-2017 but seems to fit 2014+ S platform models and 2015+ X platform models.
=Motor/Controller=
==Low SoC==
For 2014 and earlier S/DS/SR models, power is reduced below 15% battery charge, and may cut out at or below 10%.
The controller is definitely reducing power to protect the battery when its voltage is reduced.
One point of confusion is why power cuts back before 0%. It may to be due to individual cels being fully discharged too soon. Turning the bike off for a minute and then turning it on may allow using the bike for a few more miles at very slow speeds and power in order to limp home, because the lowest cel should temporarily rebound in voltage enough to satisfy the battery protection logic even though the cell will not produce power and will strongly limit what can be done with the battery until recharged.
Models with fewer battery bricks like the FX will cut back power much sooner near 50% battery charge because each cell has a greater impact on the entire power pack.
2015 models experience this trouble less acutely, and 2016 models seem willing to continue travel at 0% for up to several miles. The implication is that the cells are much more robust in these battery generations, and an abnormally low individual cell is very unlikely.
If there is an emergency need to operate to motorcycle this way, use the battery voltage display in the mobile app to understand how far away you are from the battery being completely unusable.
In any case, running the battery charge this low should be followed immediately by charging to prevent damaging the battery, and it may reduce overall battery lifetime if performed regularly.
==[[Overheating]]==
{{:Overheating}}
=Battery/Chargers=
==Hot Weather Charging==
On a hot day, or with rapid chargers, the battery may get hot when charging.
;Recommendations
* You can use the app to detect this condition.
* Charge in the shade, when possible, with good ventilation.
* A half cover or stretch-cover can help make shade.
=Electrical System=
==[[Hazard Lights Interfere With Turn Signals]]==
{{:Hazard Lights Interfere With Turn Signals}}
=App and Bluetooth=
See the [[Official Mobile Application]] page under [[Official Mobile Application#Common_Problems|Common Problems]].
