Difference between revisions of "Front Brake Pad Replacement"

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See [[Brake Pad Lookup]] to ensure a brake pad match.
  
see also [[Brake Pad Lookup]]
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===2013-2014 S-platform===
 
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: Actual bike used was a 2014 SR (Nissin 313mm). Likely applicable to S/DS/DSR.
'''Steps for 2013-2014 S-platform'''
 
 
 
Notes from replacement of brake pads using a 2014 SR (Nissin 313mm). Likely applicable to S/DS/DSR as well.
 
  
 
;Tools
 
;Tools
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# Perform an initially very slow test ride (walking speed up to 25mph), checking brake function and ensuring they are seated and performing adequately.
 
# Perform an initially very slow test ride (walking speed up to 25mph), checking brake function and ensuring they are seated and performing adequately.
  
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'''Steps for a 2016 SR'''
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===2015+ S Platform===
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: Actual bike used was a 2016 SR
  
 
''Avoid touching the pad and rotor surfaces with sharp tools and anything dirty or greasy.''
 
''Avoid touching the pad and rotor surfaces with sharp tools and anything dirty or greasy.''

Revision as of 00:49, 10 September 2019

See Brake Pad Lookup to ensure a brake pad match.

2013-2014 S-platform

Actual bike used was a 2014 SR (Nissin 313mm). Likely applicable to S/DS/DSR.
Tools
  • 13mm hex socket
  • Torque wrench
  • 4mm Allen key
  • Size 1 flat head screwdriver
  • Sandpaper
  • Brake cleaner
  • Copper grease
Nissin front brake 2014SR loosen bolts
Nissin front caliper bolts 13mm hex 2014SR
Steps
  1. Clean the slave cylinder to prevent forcing damaging detritus into the seal.
  2. Gently force the brake pads away from the disk, to ensure room for the new pads, which will be thicker than the worn pads.
    Apply pressure evenly by hand or with a soft-surfaced tool.
  3. Pre-2015: Using the Size 1 flat blade screwdriver, remove the cap to expose the head of the pin.
    • Penetrating oil may be necessary, and it's important to use the right size flat blade, as smaller ones can strip the slot as you apply pressure.
    • Rely on the caliper bolts' anchoring to the disc to ensure leverage.
  4. Remove the pin using a 4mm Allen key.
    • Rely on the caliper bolts' anchoring to the disc to ensure leverage.
  5. Remove the 13mm hex bolts holding the caliper to the fork bracket.
  6. Remove the caliper from the brake disc; inspect and clean.
    It may be possible to change the brake pads without removing the calipers from the disk, but removal is more thorough to check for wear and keep it clean.
  7. Remove the plate with the brake pads, inspect and clean, and put in fresh pads.
  8. Apply copper grease to the slave cylinders and sand the front surface of the pads.
  9. Re-install the pin through the brake pads to anchor them in place.
    Apply a drop of blue Loctite to prevent it coming loose.
  10. With the pads separated sufficiently, slide the caliper over the front disc.
  11. Align the caliper mounting holes with the fork bracket and thread the 13mm hex bolts to hold in place.
  12. Apply some blue Loctite to each caliper mounting bolt and tighten with the 13mm hex socket to the right torque (2014+: 19ft-lb, 2013: 12ft-lb).
  13. Pre-2015: Using the Size 1 flat blade screwdriver and a drop of blue Loctite, re-install and tighten the cap over the head of the pin.
  14. Rotate the front wheel to check that the caliper doesn't impede the wheel.
  15. Squeeze the front brake lever a few times to build up pressure in the hydraulics and press the pads up to the disc.
  16. Perform an initially very slow test ride (walking speed up to 25mph), checking brake function and ensuring they are seated and performing adequately.


2015+ S Platform

Actual bike used was a 2016 SR

Avoid touching the pad and rotor surfaces with sharp tools and anything dirty or greasy.

  1. Locate the bolt used to pin the low side of the brake pads. Remove the clip on the inside of the bolt.
  2. Carefully unclip from the brake line the lower three fasteners holding the ABS wire to the brake line.
  3. Remove the bolt pinning the pads with a #25 Torx bit.
  4. Back out the caliper bolts with a 8mm hex bit on a 12-inch or longer wrench.
  5. With a flat screwdriver about 8-inches long, drop the inside pad out of the caliper after completely removing the caliper bolts and sliding the caliper as far as possible off the rotor. The caliper should be removable after the inside pad clears the caliper.
  6. Loosely replace the bolt that pins the pads to temporarily hold the old pads against the pistons.
  7. Using a C-clamp with at least 2x2-inch opening and 1-inch heads, clamp the old pads to the outside caliper body to fully push back the pistons.
  8. Remove the clamp and old pads. Test fit the new pads.
  9. Insert the outside pad in the caliper. Hold the caliper against the rotor and insert the inside pad.
  10. Position the caliper to insert the caliper bolts and tighten a little more than finger-tight.
  11. Carefully drive the pad-pinning bolt until it stops and reinstall the inboard clip.
  12. Remove the caliper bolts one at a time to apply Loctite 242 or equivalent and retighten.
  13. Torque the caliper bolts to 19 lb-ft (26 Nm).
  14. Reclip the ABS wire to the brake line.
  15. Pump the brake lever a few times to drive the pistons in.
  16. Roll the bike and test the brake lever action. If there are no obvious problems, gear up and slowly ride the bike to test the brakes.
  17. If possible, gradually increase the speed of the braking tests to seat and smooth the pads.