Difference between revisions of "Unofficial Service Manual"
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; Coverage | ; Coverage | ||
− | : Unless otherwise stated, this manual refers to the shared [[ | + | * S,DS,SR,DSR ''AKA'' [[SDS Platform]]/[[Gen2]] |
− | + | *: Unless otherwise stated, this manual refers to the shared [[SDS Platform]] and the 2013+ years ([[Gen2]]) in particular. | |
− | + | * FX,FXS ''AKA'' [[XMX Platform]]/[[Gen2]] | |
− | + | *: Coverage is reasonable, but progress here would benefit from volunteers invested in these models. | |
− | + | * Pre-2013 models ''AKA'' [[Gen1]] | |
− | : | + | *: Maintenance coverage to keep their powertrains running (battery, controller, and motor). |
− | : The [[SRF Model]] bikes have only just started reaching customers in small numbers, and represents a very large shift in construction and powertrain details, so this may take some time. | + | *: These models varied significantly by year and were produced in smaller numbers. |
− | : | + | * SR/F ''AKA'' [[FST Platform]]/[[Gen3]] |
+ | *: The [[SRF Model]] bikes have only just started reaching customers in small numbers, and represents a very large shift in construction and powertrain details, so this may take some time. | ||
+ | *: See [http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=8758 Unofficial Manual updates based on Zero's SRF] on the EMF forum for notes gathered so far. | ||
__TOC__ | __TOC__ | ||
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=Platforms= | =Platforms= | ||
Zero motorcycles benefit from some commonality around the powertrain. The [[#Motor|motor]], [[#Controller|controller]], [[#Battery_Management_System|BMS]] and [[#Main_Bike_Board|MBB]] are more or less shared across all models, along with handlebars and controls. | Zero motorcycles benefit from some commonality around the powertrain. The [[#Motor|motor]], [[#Controller|controller]], [[#Battery_Management_System|BMS]] and [[#Main_Bike_Board|MBB]] are more or less shared across all models, along with handlebars and controls. | ||
− | ==[[ | + | ==[[SDS Platform]]<span id="S Platform"></span>== |
− | {{: | + | {{:SDS Platform}} |
− | ==[[ | + | ==[[XMX Platform]]<span id="X Platform"></span>== |
− | {{: | + | {{:XMX Platform}} |
==[[FST Platform]]== | ==[[FST Platform]]== | ||
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Always check for loose or corroding bolts. | Always check for loose or corroding bolts. | ||
− | + | ;Torque | |
+ | * For torques, see [[Fastener Specifications]], which gathers all the officially recommended torque and other settings for various fasteners. | ||
− | TODO: recommend a corrosion inhibitor. | + | ;Locking |
+ | * Use blue Loctite threadlocker for non-conductive bolts. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ;Corrosion | ||
+ | : TODO: recommend a corrosion inhibitor. | ||
=Frame/Bodywork= | =Frame/Bodywork= | ||
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{{:SDS Platform/Frame}} | {{:SDS Platform/Frame}} | ||
− | === | + | ===[[XMX_Platform/Frame|X Platform Frame]]=== |
− | + | {{:XMX_Platform/Frame}} | |
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==Tail Subassembly== | ==Tail Subassembly== | ||
− | + | ===[[SDS Platform/Tail Subassembly|S Platform Tail Subassembly]]=== | |
− | [[ | + | {{:SDS Platform/Tail Subassembly}} |
− | + | ===[[XMX Platform/Tail Subassembly|X Platform Tail Subassembly]]=== | |
+ | {{:XMX Platform/Tail Subassembly}} | ||
==[[Kickstand]]== | ==[[Kickstand]]== | ||
{{:Kickstand}} | {{:Kickstand}} | ||
− | == | + | ==[[Footpegs]]== |
− | + | {{:Footpegs}} | |
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==Seat== | ==Seat== | ||
− | === | + | ===[[SDS Platform/Seat|S Platform Seat]]=== |
− | [[ | + | {{:SDS Platform/Seat}} |
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− | === | ||
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− | + | ===[[XMX Platform/Seat|X Platform Seat]]=== | |
− | + | {{:XMX Platform/Seat}} | |
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===[[Seat Removal]]=== | ===[[Seat Removal]]=== | ||
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: The plastics as of this model year are painted rather than molded-in. | : The plastics as of this model year are painted rather than molded-in. | ||
− | == | + | ==[[SDS Platform/Tank Plastics|Tank Plastics]]== |
− | [[ | + | {{:SDS Platform/Tank Plastics}} |
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− | + | ==[[SDS Platform/Tail Plastics|Tail Plastics]]== | |
− | : | + | {{:SDS Platform/Tail Plastics}} |
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− | + | ===[[SDS Platform/Tail Plastics Removal|Tail Plastics Removal]]=== | |
− | + | {{:SDS Platform/Tail Plastics Removal}} | |
− | + | ==[[SDS Platform/Lower Plastics|Lower Plastics]]== | |
− | : | + | {{:SDS Platform/Lower Plastics}} |
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− | + | ===[[SDS Platform/Lower Plastics Removal|Lower Plastics Removal]]=== | |
− | + | {{:SDS Platform/Lower Plastics Removal}} | |
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− | {{:Lower Plastics Removal}} | ||
=Steering= | =Steering= | ||
− | ==Ignition== | + | ==Ignition Lock<span id="Ignition"></span>== |
The ignition is mounted on the tripe clamp top in the center between the steering head and the dash. | The ignition is mounted on the tripe clamp top in the center between the steering head and the dash. | ||
Line 327: | Line 197: | ||
: See [[#Faulty Ignition Switch|the faulty ignition switch troubleshooting guide]] for issues with this. | : See [[#Faulty Ignition Switch|the faulty ignition switch troubleshooting guide]] for issues with this. | ||
− | == | + | ==[[SDS Platform/Tank Lock|Tank Lock]]<span id="Lock"></span>== |
− | + | {{:SDS Platform/Tank Lock}} | |
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− | == | + | ==[[Mirrors]]== |
− | + | {{:Mirrors}} | |
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− | + | ==[[Handlebar]]<span id="Handlebars"></span>== | |
− | : | + | {{:Handlebar}} |
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==Brake Lever== | ==Brake Lever== | ||
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: See [[Front Brake Lever Replacement]] | : See [[Front Brake Lever Replacement]] | ||
− | == | + | ==[[Gen2/Triple Clamp|Triple Clamp]]== |
− | + | {{:Gen2/Triple Clamp}} | |
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− | + | ==[[Gen2/Steering Head|Steering Head]]== | |
− | + | {{:Gen2/Steering Head}} | |
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− | + | ===[[Gen2/Steering Head Bearing|Steering Head Bearing]]=== | |
− | : | + | {{:Gen2/Steering Head Bearing}} |
− | + | ==[[Gen2/Front Fender|Front Fender]]== | |
− | + | {{:Gen2/Front Fender}} | |
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=Wheels= | =Wheels= | ||
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{{:Rear Shock Specifications}} | {{:Rear Shock Specifications}} | ||
− | ===Rear Shock | + | ===[[Gen2/Rear Shock Substitutions|Rear Shock Substitions]]=== |
− | + | {{:Gen2/Rear Shock Substitutions}} | |
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===[[Rear Shock Adjustment]]=== | ===[[Rear Shock Adjustment]]=== | ||
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=Final Drive= | =Final Drive= | ||
− | == | + | ==[[Gen2/Swingarm|Swingarm]]== |
− | + | {{:Gen2/Swingarm}} | |
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− | + | ==[[Rear Axle]]== | |
+ | {{:Rear Axle}} | ||
− | + | ==[[Drive Belt|Belt]]== | |
− | : | + | {{:Drive Belt}} |
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− | === | + | ===[[Drive Belt/Risks|Belt Risks]]=== |
− | + | {{:Drive Belt/Risks}} | |
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− | + | ===[[Drive Belt/Specifications|Belt Specifications]]=== | |
− | + | {{:Drive Belt/Specifications}} | |
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− | + | ===[[Drive Belt/Tension Check|Belt Tension Check]]=== | |
− | + | {{:Drive Belt/Tension Check}} | |
− | === | + | ===[[Gen2/Drive Belt Adjustment|Belt Adjustment]]=== |
− | + | An unaligned or mis-tensioned belt can wear really badly and break sooner. | |
− | + | {{:Gen2/Drive Belt Adjustment}} | |
− | {{: | ||
− | ==[[ | + | ===[[Drive Belt/Wear|Belt Wear]]=== |
− | {{: | + | {{:Drive Belt/Wear}} |
− | ==[[Drive Belt|Belt]]== | + | ===[[Gen2/Drive Belt Replacement Procedure|Belt Replacement]]=== |
− | {{:Drive Belt}} | + | {{:Gen2/Drive Belt Replacement Procedure}} |
==Sprocket== | ==Sprocket== | ||
Line 641: | Line 364: | ||
{{:Sprocket Specifications}} | {{:Sprocket Specifications}} | ||
− | ===Sprocket Wear On Belt=== | + | ===[[Drive Belt/Wear From Sprocket Debris|Sprocket Wear On Belt]]=== |
− | Wear | + | {{:Drive Belt/Wear From Sprocket Debris}} |
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===[[Front Sprocket Replacement|Front Sprocket Removal / Swap]]=== | ===[[Front Sprocket Replacement|Front Sprocket Removal / Swap]]=== | ||
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*: Test the rear brake after doing this. | *: Test the rear brake after doing this. | ||
− | ==Brake Maintenance== | + | ==[[Brake Maintenance]]== |
− | + | {{:Brake Maintenance}} | |
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− | ==Brake | + | ==[[Brake Systems]]== |
− | { | + | {{:Brake Systems}} |
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− | + | ==[[Brake Hydraulics]]== | |
− | : | + | {{:Brake Hydraulics}} |
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==Rear Brake Actuator== | ==Rear Brake Actuator== | ||
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: On pre-2015 models, the pedal is made from a single piece. | : On pre-2015 models, the pedal is made from a single piece. | ||
: On 2015+ models, the pedal toe actuator is bolted on (M6X20-8.8) and may be replaced or have an S vs DS toe actuator swap. | : On 2015+ models, the pedal toe actuator is bolted on (M6X20-8.8) and may be replaced or have an S vs DS toe actuator swap. | ||
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;Rear Brake Switch | ;Rear Brake Switch | ||
Line 773: | Line 404: | ||
: The rear brake switch is built into top banjo bolt. | : The rear brake switch is built into top banjo bolt. | ||
− | + | ;Rear Brake Pedal | |
+ | : The threaded rod from the brake lever to the master cylinder adjusts lever height. | ||
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+ | ;Rear Brake Pedal Adjustment | ||
+ | : The rear brake pedal is adjustable at the clevis. | ||
+ | # Remove the pin. | ||
+ | # Loosen the actuator shaft locknut above the clevis. | ||
+ | # Grip the shaft firmly with (say) long heavy-duty needle-nose pliers. | ||
+ | # Rotate the shaft back toward the rear of the bike to lower the pedal foot (or towards the front to raise the pedal foot), repeating as needed. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ;References | ||
+ | : [http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6618.msg52588#msg52588 Re: [2016 FXS] Rear brake light comes on way too late] | ||
+ | : [https://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=9424 Is there an adjustable pedal brake lever?] | ||
+ | : [https://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7266 Rear Brake Pedal mods] | ||
==ABS System== | ==ABS System== | ||
Line 795: | Line 439: | ||
:: Brake pump is very weak on these models; you need all the braking power you can get in spite of noise. | :: Brake pump is very weak on these models; you need all the braking power you can get in spite of noise. | ||
: Sand the pads. | : Sand the pads. | ||
− | : Grease the back of the pads lightly with copper grease. | + | : Grease the back of the pads lightly with ceramic grease (copper grease can interfere with ABS sensors). |
: Check caliper position. | : Check caliper position. | ||
: Check caliper springs, if any. | : Check caliper springs, if any. | ||
Line 852: | Line 496: | ||
===[[Front Brake Pad Replacement]]=== | ===[[Front Brake Pad Replacement]]=== | ||
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{{:Front Brake Pad Replacement}} | {{:Front Brake Pad Replacement}} | ||
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* See Zero's [https://www.zeromotorcycles.com/powertrains/ Z-Force Powertrain Solutions] page which has a contact form. | * See Zero's [https://www.zeromotorcycles.com/powertrains/ Z-Force Powertrain Solutions] page which has a contact form. | ||
− | ==Throttle== | + | ==[[Throttle]]== |
− | + | {{:Throttle}} | |
− | + | ===[[Magura Throttle]]=== | |
+ | {{:Magura Throttle}} | ||
− | + | ===[[Bitron Throttle]]=== | |
− | + | {{:Bitron Throttle}} | |
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==Regen== | ==Regen== | ||
Line 1,047: | Line 604: | ||
|} | |} | ||
− | === | + | ===[[Gen1/Agni Motor|Agni Motor]]=== |
− | + | {{:Gen1/Agni Motor}} | |
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− | === | + | ===[[Z-Force Motor]]=== |
− | + | {{:Z-Force Motor}} | |
− | ====Z-Force Motor 75- | + | ====[[Z-Force Motor/75-5|Z-Force Motor 75-5]]==== |
− | + | {{:Z-Force Motor/75-5}} | |
− | ====Z-Force Motor | + | ====[[Z-Force Motor/75-7|Z-Force Motor 75-7]]==== |
− | + | {{:Z-Force Motor/75-7}} | |
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− | ====Z-Force Motor | + | ====[[Z-Force Motor/75-7R|Z-Force Motor R-Variant]]==== |
− | + | {{:Z-Force Motor/75-7R}} | |
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− | ====Z-Force Motor | + | ====[[Z-Force Motor/IPM Update|Z-Force Motor IPM Update]]==== |
− | + | {{:Z-Force Motor/IPM Update}} | |
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− | ====Z-Force Motor | + | ====[[Z-Force Motor/Splined Shaft Update|Z-Force Motor Mount/Torque Update]]==== |
− | + | {{:Z-Force Motor/Splined Shaft Update}} | |
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− | + | ====[[Z-Force Motor/75-10|Z-Force Motor 75-10]]==== | |
− | + | {{:Z-Force Motor/75-10}} | |
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===Motor Mounting=== | ===Motor Mounting=== | ||
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{{:Motor Bearing Replacement}} | {{:Motor Bearing Replacement}} | ||
− | ===Motor Shaft=== | + | ===[[Z-Force Motor/Shaft|Motor Shaft]]=== |
− | + | {{:Z-Force Motor/Shaft}} | |
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===Motor Sounds=== | ===Motor Sounds=== | ||
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: While moving, the motor tends to make a solid smooth tone resonant with the RPMs the motor is rotating at, usually noticeable around 15-30mph (30-50kph). | : While moving, the motor tends to make a solid smooth tone resonant with the RPMs the motor is rotating at, usually noticeable around 15-30mph (30-50kph). | ||
− | === | + | ===[[Z-Force Motor/Electrical Connections|Motor Wiring]]=== |
− | + | {{:Z-Force Motor/Electrical Connections}} | |
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===Motor Alignment=== | ===Motor Alignment=== | ||
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# Adjust the portion of the silver nut that is not wedged into the slot on the motor. | # Adjust the portion of the silver nut that is not wedged into the slot on the motor. | ||
− | ===Motor Commissioning=== | + | ===[[Motor Commissioning]]=== |
− | Motor | + | {{:Motor Commissioning}} |
− | + | ===[[Z-Force Motor/Limits|Motor Limits]]=== | |
− | + | {{:Z-Force Motor/Limits}} | |
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− | ===Motor Limits=== | ||
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==Controller== | ==Controller== | ||
Line 1,521: | Line 939: | ||
Until 2014, Zero used branded versions of generic Koso instrument clusters, mapping the fuel level indicator to battery state of charge. | Until 2014, Zero used branded versions of generic Koso instrument clusters, mapping the fuel level indicator to battery state of charge. | ||
− | === | + | ===[[Gen1/Koso XR-SR|Koso XR-SR]]=== |
− | + | {{:Gen1/Koso XR-SR}} | |
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− | + | ===[[Koso RX-1N]]=== | |
− | : | + | {{:Koso RX-1N}} |
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− | + | ===[[Gen2/Instrument Cluster|Zero 2014 Instrument Cluster]]=== | |
− | + | {{:Gen2/Instrument Cluster}} | |
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− | + | ==[[Onboard Charger|Charger]]== | |
− | + | {{:Onboard Charger}} | |
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− | + | ===[[Gen2/Calex Charger|Calex Charger]]=== | |
− | : | + | {{:Gen2/Calex Charger}} |
− | |||
− | ===Charger | + | ====[[Gen2/Calex Charger Behavior|Calex Charger Behavior]]==== |
− | : | + | {{:Gen2/Calex Charger Behavior}} |
− | |||
− | + | ===[[Gen2/Meanwell Charger Behavior|Meanwell Charger Behavior]]=== | |
− | + | {{:Gen2/Meanwell Charger Behavior}} | |
− | |||
− | + | ===[[Gen2/Calex Charger Operation|Charger Operation]]=== | |
− | + | {{:Gen2/Calex Charger Operation}} | |
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− | + | ===[[Gen2/Charger Power Cord|Charger Power Cord]]=== | |
− | + | {{:Gen2/Charger Power Cord}} | |
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− | + | ===[[Gen2/Calex Charger/Connections|Charger Connections]]=== | |
− | + | {{:Gen2/Calex Charger/Connections}} | |
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===[[Calex Charger Replacement|Charger Replacement]]=== | ===[[Calex Charger Replacement|Charger Replacement]]=== | ||
{{:Calex Charger Replacement}} | {{:Calex Charger Replacement}} | ||
− | ==Main Bike Board | + | ==[[Gen2/Main Bike Board|Main Bike Board]]== |
− | + | {{:Gen2/Main Bike Board}} | |
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− | + | ===[[Gen2/Main Bike Board/Limitations|Main Bike Board Limitations]]=== | |
− | + | {{:Gen2/Main Bike Board/Limitations}} | |
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− | + | ===[[Gen2/Main Bike Board/Connections|Main Bike Board Connections]]=== | |
− | : | + | {{:Gen2/Main Bike Board/Connections}} |
− | + | ==[[Gen2/Charging Control Unit|Charging Control Unit]]== | |
− | : | + | {{:Gen2/Charging Control Unit}} |
− | |||
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− | + | ==[[DC-DC 12V Converter|DC-DC 12V converter]]== | |
− | + | {{:DC-DC 12V Converter}} | |
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==Power Harness== | ==Power Harness== | ||
Line 2,167: | Line 1,006: | ||
: ''Hypothesis:'' This is a hardware debugging mechanism for a loose connector. | : ''Hypothesis:'' This is a hardware debugging mechanism for a loose connector. | ||
− | ==Firmware Update== | + | ==[[Firmware Update]]== |
− | Firmware | + | {{:Firmware Update}} |
− | + | ==[[Firmware Versions]]== | |
− | + | {{:Firmware Versions}} | |
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=Battery= | =Battery= | ||
+ | The following guidance includes advice adapted from [http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4280.0 MostlyBonkers' research summary] and [http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5314 Battery Notes from a Farasis Engineer]. | ||
− | + | ==[[Battery/Concepts|Battery Concepts]]== | |
− | + | {{:Battery/Concepts}} | |
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==Charge Tips== | ==Charge Tips== | ||
Line 2,285: | Line 1,028: | ||
# Zero's engineers have done the work to ensure a long service life from their battery packs and have backed it up with a five year warranty with the 2014 model range onwards. That should be enough to drop any anxiety you may have and just concentrate on enjoying the bike. | # Zero's engineers have done the work to ensure a long service life from their battery packs and have backed it up with a five year warranty with the 2014 model range onwards. That should be enough to drop any anxiety you may have and just concentrate on enjoying the bike. | ||
− | ==Battery Capacity== | + | ==[[Battery/Capacity|Battery Capacity]]== |
+ | {{:Battery/Capacity}} | ||
− | + | ==[[Battery/Cells|Cells]]== | |
+ | {{:Battery/Cells}} | ||
− | + | ==[[Battery/Cell Arrangement|Cell Arrangement]]== | |
+ | {{:Battery/Cell Arrangement}} | ||
− | + | ===[[Battery/Brick|Brick]]=== | |
− | + | {{:Battery/Brick}} | |
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− | + | ===[[Battery/Monolith|Monolith]]=== | |
− | + | {{:Battery/Monolith}} | |
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− | + | ===[[Battery/Long Brick|Long Brick]]=== | |
− | + | {{:Battery/Long Brick}} | |
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− | + | ==[[Battery Management System]]== | |
− | + | {{:Battery Management System}} | |
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− | == | + | ===[[BMS/Architecture|BMS Architecture]]=== |
− | + | {{:BMS/Architecture}} | |
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===[[BMS Reset Procedure|BMS Reset]]=== | ===[[BMS Reset Procedure|BMS Reset]]=== | ||
{{:BMS Reset Procedure}} | {{:BMS Reset Procedure}} | ||
− | ===Cell Balancing | + | ===[[BMS/Cell Balancing|Cell Balancing]]=== |
− | + | {{:BMS/Cell Balancing}} | |
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− | + | ===[[BMS/Precharge|Precharge]]=== | |
+ | {{:BMS/Precharge}} | ||
− | + | ==[[State of Charge]]== | |
− | : | + | {{:State of Charge}} |
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− | == | + | ===[[BMS/SoC Estimation|BMS SoC Estimation]]=== |
− | [[ | + | {{:BMS/SoC Estimation}} |
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− | {{: | + | ===[[BMS/SoC Calibration|SoC Calibration]]=== |
+ | {{:BMS/SoC Calibration}} | ||
− | + | ==[[Battery/Storage and Capacity with Age|Battery Storage and Capacity with Age]]== | |
− | + | {{:Battery/Storage and Capacity with Age}} | |
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− | + | ==[[Battery/Temperature Effects|Battery Temperature Effects]]== | |
− | + | {{:Battery/Temperature Effects}} | |
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==Battery Memory Effects== | ==Battery Memory Effects== | ||
Line 2,842: | Line 1,089: | ||
==Protections== | ==Protections== | ||
− | === | + | ===[[Main Contactor|Contactor]]=== |
− | + | {{:Main Contactor}} | |
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===Battery Fuse=== | ===Battery Fuse=== | ||
Line 2,983: | Line 1,097: | ||
Naturally, if this fuse blows, your battery warranty may be in question, and certainly if you open the pack to replace it. | Naturally, if this fuse blows, your battery warranty may be in question, and certainly if you open the pack to replace it. | ||
− | ==Battery Stress Factors== | + | ==[[Battery/Stress Factors|Battery Stress Factors]]== |
− | + | {{:Battery/Stress Factors}} | |
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==Battery Longevity== | ==Battery Longevity== | ||
Line 3,007: | Line 1,111: | ||
Battery technology is improving every year, but not at the same rate as computer technology. A 10% per year increase in capacity might be a reasonable expectation. We can always hope that there will be a significant breakthrough that makes is way to production and changes the state of the art much quicker. For the time being though, we have robust technology that should give you five to ten years of service and a range of about 100 miles of mixed riding as long as you don't spend much time on fast roads. It's perfect for many city commuters and people who like relaxed rides taking the country roads. You will need an ICE bike for longer journeys and touring, unless you are willing to plan in long charging stops. If you can use your bike for your commute or have regular trips that cover less than 100 miles a day, then range anxiety won't be an issue. | Battery technology is improving every year, but not at the same rate as computer technology. A 10% per year increase in capacity might be a reasonable expectation. We can always hope that there will be a significant breakthrough that makes is way to production and changes the state of the art much quicker. For the time being though, we have robust technology that should give you five to ten years of service and a range of about 100 miles of mixed riding as long as you don't spend much time on fast roads. It's perfect for many city commuters and people who like relaxed rides taking the country roads. You will need an ICE bike for longer journeys and touring, unless you are willing to plan in long charging stops. If you can use your bike for your commute or have regular trips that cover less than 100 miles a day, then range anxiety won't be an issue. | ||
− | ==Battery Best Practices== | + | ==[[Battery/Best Practices|Battery Best Practices]]== |
− | + | {{:Battery/Best Practices}} | |
− | + | ==[[Battery/Construction|Battery Construction]]== | |
+ | {{:Battery/Construction}} | ||
− | + | ==Battery Removal== | |
− | : | + | ===[[XMX Platform/Power Pack Module Removal|Power Pack Module Removal]]=== |
+ | {{:XMX Platform/Power Pack Module Removal}} | ||
− | + | ===[[SDS Platform/Monolith Removal|Monolith Removal]]=== | |
− | + | {{:SDS Platform/Monolith Removal}} | |
− | == | ||
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==Battery Pack Rebuild== | ==Battery Pack Rebuild== | ||
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*: Charging mode can be retained through [[#Accessory Charging Port|charging port]] inputs at the signal pins, but they cannot initiate charging mode. | *: Charging mode can be retained through [[#Accessory Charging Port|charging port]] inputs at the signal pins, but they cannot initiate charging mode. | ||
− | ==Charging Indications | + | ==[[Gen2/Charging Indications|Charging Indications]]== |
− | + | {{:Gen2/Charging Indications}} | |
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==Charging Heat== | ==Charging Heat== | ||
Line 3,100: | Line 1,165: | ||
: Use a battery temperature indication to help understand this. | : Use a battery temperature indication to help understand this. | ||
− | ==On-board Charging Port== | + | ==[[Gen2/Charging Inlet|On-board Charging Port]]== |
− | + | {{:Gen2/Charging Inlet}} | |
− | + | ==[[Gen2/Accessory Charging Port|Accessory Charging Port]]== | |
− | + | {{:Gen2/Accessory Charging Port}} | |
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− | [[ | + | {{:Gen2/Charging Circuit Fuse}} |
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=Electrical System= | =Electrical System= | ||
Line 3,225: | Line 1,179: | ||
Zero's models ship with halogen bulbs. | Zero's models ship with halogen bulbs. | ||
− | ====X Platform Headlamp==== | + | ====[[XMX Platform/Headlamp|X Platform Headlamp]]==== |
− | + | {{:XMX Platform/Headlamp}} | |
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− | ====S Platform Headlamp==== | + | ====[[SDS Platform/Headlamp|S Platform Headlamp]]==== |
− | : | + | {{:SDS Platform/Headlamp}} |
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− | + | ===[[Turn Signals]]=== | |
− | + | {{:Turn Signals}} | |
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− | === | + | ===[[Turn Signal Flasher]]=== |
− | + | {{:Turn Signal Flasher}} | |
− | + | ===[[Tail Light]]=== | |
+ | {{:Tail Light}} | ||
===[[Horn]]=== | ===[[Horn]]=== | ||
Line 3,352: | Line 1,199: | ||
==Switchgear== | ==Switchgear== | ||
− | === | + | ===[[12V Fuse Block|Fuse Block]]=== |
− | + | {{:12V Fuse Block}} | |
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===Ignition Switch=== | ===Ignition Switch=== | ||
Line 3,432: | Line 1,217: | ||
The handlebar switch housing assemblies seem generic but have Torx T22 security bolt fasteners making inspection and maintenance more difficult than average. | The handlebar switch housing assemblies seem generic but have Torx T22 security bolt fasteners making inspection and maintenance more difficult than average. | ||
− | ===Kill Switch=== | + | ===[[Kill Switch]]=== |
− | + | {{:Kill Switch}} | |
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− | + | ===[[Kickstand Switch]]=== | |
− | + | {{:Kickstand Switch}} | |
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===Tail Wiring=== | ===Tail Wiring=== | ||
Line 3,561: | Line 1,272: | ||
Burton has been maintaining a Zero wiring diagram based on his now-highly-modified 2013 Zero S. It is schematically correct for that year but could use improvement explaining the physical routing and there are missing details like the precharge circuit. | Burton has been maintaining a Zero wiring diagram based on his now-highly-modified 2013 Zero S. It is schematically correct for that year but could use improvement explaining the physical routing and there are missing details like the precharge circuit. | ||
− | === | + | ===[[SDS Platform/Schematic|S-Platform Schematic]]=== |
− | + | {{:SDS Platform/Schematic}} | |
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− | [ | + | ===[[XMX Platform/Schematic|X-Platform Schematic]]=== |
− | + | {{:XMX Platform/Schematic}} | |
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==OBD-II Port== | ==OBD-II Port== | ||
− | === | + | ===[[OBD-II Port Location]]<span id="OBD Location"></span>=== |
− | + | {{:OBD-II Port Location}} | |
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==Routing== | ==Routing== | ||
− | === | + | ===[[SDS Platform/Electrical Routing|S Platform Routing]]=== |
− | + | {{:SDS Platform/Electrical Routing}} | |
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− | + | ===[[XMX Platform/Electrical Routing|X Platform Routing]]=== | |
− | + | {{:XMX Platform/Electrical Routing}} | |
=Troubleshooting= | =Troubleshooting= | ||
Line 3,749: | Line 1,332: | ||
# Key the bike off and on slowly, waiting after each transition to see whether the condition clears. | # Key the bike off and on slowly, waiting after each transition to see whether the condition clears. | ||
#* If the error occurs without or before the contactor is shut, then the fault is within the battery and might be due to moisture or dust entering the front of the battery faceplate where the BMS is. | #* If the error occurs without or before the contactor is shut, then the fault is within the battery and might be due to moisture or dust entering the front of the battery faceplate where the BMS is. | ||
− | #* If the error clears after opening the contactor, then the fault is likely downstream of the contactor, including the Accessory Charging Port signal pins, the Sevcon controller, and the MBB and DC-DC connections. | + | #* If the error clears after opening the contactor, then the fault is likely downstream of the contactor, including the Accessory Charging Port signal pins, the Sevcon controller, Sevcon DC-DC 110V->12V converter, and the MBB and DC-DC connections. |
# Check for moisture on the Accessory Charging Port signal pins and attempt to dry them as necessary. | # Check for moisture on the Accessory Charging Port signal pins and attempt to dry them as necessary. | ||
+ | # After everything dries out and/or the isolation fault has disappeared apply dielectric grease to all connections that would be vulnerable to water ingres (under the seat, 12V connectors, etc) | ||
;[[#Controller|Controller]] Hypothesis [https://www.facebook.com/groups/zmcowners/permalink/1546883172047552/ via DoctorBass] | ;[[#Controller|Controller]] Hypothesis [https://www.facebook.com/groups/zmcowners/permalink/1546883172047552/ via DoctorBass] |
Latest revision as of 05:34, 5 December 2019
Overview
This describes the Zero motorcycle platform and includes as many service tasks not described (or incompletely described) in the official Owner's Manuals as customers have identified.
- Some information might be hearsay or not completely communicated, but attempts have been made to verify as much as possible.
- As with anything in a wiki environment, whatever you undertake with this as a guide is your own responsibility.
- Coverage
- S,DS,SR,DSR AKA SDS Platform/Gen2
- Unless otherwise stated, this manual refers to the shared SDS Platform and the 2013+ years (Gen2) in particular.
- FX,FXS AKA XMX Platform/Gen2
- Coverage is reasonable, but progress here would benefit from volunteers invested in these models.
- Pre-2013 models AKA Gen1
- Maintenance coverage to keep their powertrains running (battery, controller, and motor).
- These models varied significantly by year and were produced in smaller numbers.
- SR/F AKA FST Platform/Gen3
- The SRF Model bikes have only just started reaching customers in small numbers, and represents a very large shift in construction and powertrain details, so this may take some time.
- See Unofficial Manual updates based on Zero's SRF on the EMF forum for notes gathered so far.
Contents
- 1 Overview
- 2 Platforms
- 3 General Information
- 4 General Maintenance
- 5 Frame/Bodywork
- 6 Steering
- 7 Wheels
- 8 Suspension
- 9 Final Drive
- 10 Brakes
- 11 Powertrain
- 11.1 Throttle
- 11.2 Regen
- 11.3 Drive Modes
- 11.4 Motor
- 11.5 Controller
- 11.5.1 Controller Operation
- 11.5.2 Controller Alignment
- 11.5.3 Controller Versions
- 11.5.4 Controller Mounting
- 11.5.5 Controller Uncovering
- 11.5.6 Controller Heatsink
- 11.5.7 Controller Connections
- 11.5.8 Controller Feature Usage
- 11.5.9 Controller CAN Diagnostics
- 11.5.10 Controller Configuration
- 11.5.11 Controller Cover
- 12 Electronic Systems
- 13 Battery
- 13.1 Battery Concepts
- 13.2 Charge Tips
- 13.3 Battery Capacity
- 13.4 Cells
- 13.5 Cell Arrangement
- 13.6 Battery Management System
- 13.7 State of Charge
- 13.8 Battery Storage and Capacity with Age
- 13.9 Battery Temperature Effects
- 13.10 Battery Memory Effects
- 13.11 Rate of Charging and Discharging
- 13.12 Protections
- 13.13 Battery Stress Factors
- 13.14 Battery Longevity
- 13.15 Battery Future
- 13.16 Battery Best Practices
- 13.17 Battery Construction
- 13.18 Battery Removal
- 13.19 Battery Pack Rebuild
- 13.20 References and further reading
- 14 Charging
- 15 Electrical System
- 16 Troubleshooting
Platforms
Zero motorcycles benefit from some commonality around the powertrain. The motor, controller, BMS and MBB are more or less shared across all models, along with handlebars and controls.
SDS Platform
The S (or SDS) Platform builds on a single evolving frame design around a full battery power pack (the Monolith), and consists of the S and DS and the high-performance variants SR and DSR.
- Fleet variants
- SP, DSP, SRP, DSRP - Law enforcement / patrol.
XMX Platform
The X (or XMX) platform builds on a single lighter-weight frame design around two bricks of batteries, and consists of the FX and FXS variants.
- Fleet variants
- FXP, FXSP - Law enforcement / patrol.
- MMX - Military built-to-order
- Older Variants
- XU (2011,2012,2013): a low power street/training model.
- X (2011,2012): an offroad (street homologation optional) model.
- MX (2011,2012,2013): a motocross (tall suspension offroad, street homologation optional) model.
FST Platform
This is the platform listed for the SRF Model.
General Information
VIN
The VIN is inscribed on the front head tube of the frame per the official manual.
See the VIN guide to understand how the VIN describes your vehicle, as compiled across manual revisions.
Systems
This is a very simplified way of looking at the bike’s systems functions and general purposes, linking to relevant sections.
Mechanical Systems
Powertrain Systems
Energy Systems
Electrical Systems
General Maintenance
Mostly, refer to the official owners' manual for regular and general maintenance.
Lift
Some maintenance tasks are better performed with the wheels off the ground.
- The armored pan under the battery that protects onboard charging units is strong enough and positioned well to use a center lift.
- Recommendation
- Using a scissor lift center stand is an easy method to lift the bike.
- Rage Powersports BW-1604A has been spotted at Zero HQ, but other manufacturers make very equivalent stands.
- A center lift is easier than a rear stand to operate solo, and it is more compact than the rear stand although much heavier.
- Location (S Platform)
- Use a center lift under the battery compartment.
- Orient the center stand so that it runs side-to-side to provide lateral stability.
- Place it under the rear of the battery compartment to lift the bike's front and rear equally.
- Place it under the front of the battery compartment to lift the bike's front and leave the rear tire in floor contact.
- Strap the bike securely (through the center frame tube, say) to avoid toppling it.
- Confirmed fits
- Drag Specialties Center Jack (all models) uses a 15/16 hex wrench to raise and lower the lift.
- Generic Lift uses a 7/8 hex wrench/socket; should work for all models, confirmed for 2014 SR.
- Location (X Platform)
- The FXS (at least) has three bolts sticking out from the pan under the bike.
- Orient the center stand so that it runs side-to-side to provide lateral stability.
- You can put a rubber pad on your lift to make it easier to use it over the bolts.
- Confirmed fits
- MSR Pro Lift Stand for the FX, but not other models (even FXS) because of height issues.
- References
- Discussion thread
- Video of DSR lifted by scissor jack.
- Rage Powersports BW-1604A scissor jack unboxing by [Eric Shattow on YouTube]:
Front Stand
- When To Use
- A front stand is the easiest way to:
- Perform Front Wheel Removal.
- Remove and replace the Belly Pan.
- Spool Stands
- The Zero does not offer axle attachment points for spools for a front stand.
- Steering Head Pin Stands
- 2014+ models(?) have a steering pin diameter of 5/8".
- 2012-2013 Zero models have an 8mm diameter (from a 2013 Zero S report and some checking around), with no vendor match.
- The DS/DSR/FX models' high front fender must be removed (or drilled through) to use a pin for the front steering head.
- Confirmed fits
- Pit Bull offers Pin #7, Front to fit the 5/8" steering pin diameter.
- Pit Bull Hybrid Dual Lift Stand Zero S/SR/DS/FX (Order should automatically include pin #7).
- Verify your steering stem before ordering.
- Front Stand Chart.
Years | Platform | Front Pin | Rear Pin | Rear Supports | Restraint |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
2013 | S & X | None! (8mm ⌀) | Pin Fitting Only - Zero Motorcycles (Axle: 23-04736) | Trailer Restraint System - Zero Motorcycles (Axle: 23-04736) | |
2014 | Pin #7, Front | ||||
2015+ | Pin Fitting Only - Zero Motorcycles (Axle: 23-08032) | Trailer Restraint System - Zero Motorcycles (Axle: 23-08032) |
Rear Stand
- Inexpensive Jack Stands and a 2x4
- Will Burk shared his technique Cheap and Easy Motorcycle Lift for raising the rear wheel off the ground with a pair of jack stands and a 2x4:
- Swingarm attachment
- The Zero does not offer swingarm attachment points for spools for a rear stand.
- A rear stand can work if it cradles the underside of the swingarm snugly.
- This can work but takes a little care to operate single-handedly.
- Confirmed fits
- Pit Bull Standard Rear Stand
- Pit Bull Forward Handle Standard Rear Stand
- Haul-Master 1000 Lb. Capacity Motorcycle Swingarm Rear Stand (Harbor Freight)
- Axle Attachment
- Custom Fabrication
- An axle stand can be fabricated, like this Home made rear axle stand on Zero FXS.
Years | Platform | Front Pin | Rear Pin | Rear Supports | Restraint |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
2013 | S & X | None! (8mm ⌀) | Pin Fitting Only - Zero Motorcycles (Axle: 23-04736) | Trailer Restraint System - Zero Motorcycles (Axle: 23-04736) | |
2014 | Pin #7, Front | ||||
2015+ | Pin Fitting Only - Zero Motorcycles (Axle: 23-08032) | Trailer Restraint System - Zero Motorcycles (Axle: 23-08032) |
Tools
See the separate Tool Kits article for a curated short list of tools with their purposes.
- NOTE: integrate or meld notes below with that article.
Tools and parts to support your bike
A travel kit for a motorcycle is always a good idea, but Zero doesn't include a default set. They do sell a tool kit which covers many common tasks.
- Tools for Everyday Riding
- Torx T45 for MY2015+ to remove the seat for fuse block access.
- 3mm allen key for tank plastics and headlamp upper mount screws.
- 4mm allen key for headlamp lower mount screws.
- 5mm allen key for the front brake lever and front wheel pinch bolt.
- Tire pressure gauge.
- 10mm, 13mm wrench (or monkey wrench) for belt tension adjustment and front brake calipers.
Consumables
- Spare Parts for Everyday Riding
- 12V fuses (10A, 15A typically).
- Tire patch kit, suitable for tubed (pre-2015 DS or FX bikes) or tubeless tires (all others).
- Cable ties and electrical tape for wiring.
- Spare Parts for Travel
- Belt
- ~$90, only available from Zero.
- Expect to eventually use it as replacement; avoids a delay waiting on delivery.
- Tools for belt replacement: 27mm socket with breaker bar, 10mm hex key...
- Eaton JJN-100 fuse or size-matched 200V-rated fuses (30A will do in a pinch, being lower-spec)
- Fixes the accessory charging circuit which can be circumstantially blown without compromising the main boards.
Pre-Ride Checklist
Item | What to Check | Look For | Check Off | |
---|---|---|---|---|
Tires And Wheels | Tires | Condition | Tread depth, wear, weathering, evenly seated, bulges, embedded objects. | Front & Rear |
Air Pressure | Check When Cold; Adjust to Load | |||
Wheels | Spokes | Bent/broken/missing. Check tension at top of wheel: "ring" is okay, "thud" means loose. | ||
Cast | Cracks or dents | |||
Rims | Out of round by more than 5mm. Spin the wheel against a stationary pointer | |||
Bearings | Grab the tire and flex it; no freeplay (click) between the hub and axle; no growl or squeak when spinning. | |||
Seals | Cracked or torn, no grease | |||
Brakes | Function | Each brake alone can hold the bike stationary | ||
Condition | Worn pads or discs | |||
Controls | Handlebars | Condition | Bars are straight, turn freely, handgrips and bar ends are secure. | |
Brake Lever / Brake Pedal | Condition | Not broken/bent/cracked; adjusted properly. | ||
Pivots | Lubricated | |||
Brake Hoses | Condition | No cuts/cracks/leaks/bulges/chafing/deterioration. | ||
Routing | No interference or pull at the steering head; no sharp angles; support clamps in place. | |||
Throttle | Operation | Moves freely; snaps closed. | ||
Lights & Electrics | Headlamp/Running light | Condition | Turns on; no cracks; mounted securely; clean reflector. | |
Aim | Just below horizontal and not skewed left or right. | |||
Tail Lights | Condition | No cracks; clean and bright. | ||
Operation | Running light always on; brighter with front or rear brake pressed. | |||
Switches | Operation | All switches function correctly: motor cut-out, hi/low beam, turn signal, hazard switch. | ||
Turn signals | Operation | No cracks; flashes with left and right turn signal switch usage; resets per switch. | ||
Mirrors | Condition | No cracks; clean, mount and swivel joints are tight | ||
Aim | Check/adjust while seated on the bike off the kickstand. | |||
Wiring | Condition | No fraying or chafing; insulated. | ||
Routing | No pinching, interference, or pulling at the steering head or suspension; wire looms and ties in place; connectors tight and clean. | |||
Oil & Fluids | Hydraulic Fluid | Level | Check front and rear reservoirs | |
Cleanliness | Check whether the fluid is very dark, foamed, or has water | |||
Chassis | Frame | Condition | No cracks at gussets or accessory mounts; no paint lifting | |
Steering-Head Bearings | No detent or tight spots through full travel; raise front wheel and check for play by pulling/pushing forks. | |||
Swingarm Bushings | Raise the rear wheel and check for play by pulling/pushing swingarm. | |||
Suspension | Front Forks | Smooth travel, equal air pressure/damping, anti-dive settings. | Left & Right | |
Rear Shock | Smooth travel, equal pre-load/air pressure/damping settings, linkage moves freely and is lubricated. | |||
Belt | Tension | Check at tightest point | ||
Alignment | Check position on rear sprocket; spin the wheel to check changing position | |||
Sprockets | Teeth not hooked or chipped; clean and securely mounted | |||
Fasteners | Threaded | Tight; none missing; check for corrosion | ||
Clips and Pins | None broken or missing | |||
Stands | Side Stand | Condition | No cracks; not bent; cutout switch equipped and working | |
Retention | Springs into place; tension holds position up or down |
Fastener Maintenance
Always check for loose or corroding bolts.
- Torque
- For torques, see Fastener Specifications, which gathers all the officially recommended torque and other settings for various fasteners.
- Locking
- Use blue Loctite threadlocker for non-conductive bolts.
- Corrosion
- TODO: recommend a corrosion inhibitor.
Frame/Bodywork
Frame
S Platform Frame
- The 2013+ Zero frame for S/DS/SR/DSR bikes is made of anodized aluminum, weighs 23lbs, and is a combination of cast parts and welded square tubing of 1-inch outer width.
- The frame slips onto the battery pack case over the top and attaches to it with four major bolts around the bottom. The charger is attached to the underside with a protective plate covering it (plastic for S/SR, aluminum for DS/DSR).
- Attachment Points
- The frame offers a number of rivet nut attachment points for the lower plastics.
- The rivet nuts are sized to accept M5 bolts (a total depth of 20mm is available without marring the inside of the frame bar) with a 6mm shoulder to a depth of 5mm. (A longer shoulder and length are required for fastening a bracket beyond that.)
- From 2015 onwards, the frame has extra attachment points made for the crash bars used for fleet/police models.
- Two extra rivet nut holes on each side of the frame diagonal shoulder of the same size. They are 30mm apart (center to center).
- The lower bash plate has similar modifications from that year - two rivet nut holes pre-made for M6 bolts and capped by threaded plastic inserts on each side for the lower mount. There is perhaps 10mm thread depth or allowance between the outer surface of the plate and the onboard charger enclosure.
- On prior year models, the OEM or dealer would make these fittings.
- Vertical Stanchions
- Tail Horns
- Neck and Shoulder
- Battery Carrier Tray
- Board Mounting Plate
Frame Tube
The frame has a tube running through the center of the bike where the tail horns meet the vertical stanchions and the main forward frame beams.
- The tube functions as the anchor and hinge support for the rear shock.
- For 2012-2014 models, this inner tube functions effectively as storage for the Charger Power Cord.
- 2015+ models have a brace in the center of the hole which reduces the diameter in that section.
- The rough edges on this brace can abrade the power cord, so for these models, storing the cord there can wear it out over time.
Inner diameter (2015+) | ~58mm |
Center Brace minimum diameter (2015+) | ~40mm |
- References
- Re: Through-frame security aperture size?
Belly Pan
The Belly Pan AKA Skid Plate covers the onboard charger and is metallic on the DS/DSR and a very hard ABS plastic on the S/SR models.
Both variants are sturdy enough to support the bike on a centerlift.
- Parts
- S/SR: Hard plastic, part 24-07746.
- DS/DSR: Aluminum alloy 5052-H32, part 26-08051 (was 20-05126).
- Mounting
- Fastened by 8 M5X16-8.8 button head bolts, 4 per side.
- Forward corner bolts fasten into corner brackets (part 20-05307) that extend the lower frame square tubing.
- Video Guide
- How to Remove the Zero's Onboard Charger by NewZeroLand on YouTube from the beginning to 2 minutes in shows very clearly how to remove the pan from a Zero SR.
- Tools
- 3mm Allen key.
- Steps
- (Optional) Place the bike upright on a front wheel stand if a vertical drop of the pan is suitable.
- Loosen each of the 8 bolts retaining the belly pan (4 per side), without removing.
- Remove each fastener in some suitable rotation so the pan isn't temporarily left dangling by one fastener.
- The pan is lightweight and can be manually suspended if convenient, or use a lift to catch the pan and lower it.
- Set the bolts aside with the pan for replacement later.
Y-Shaped Underseat Frame
This frame piece spans the top of the frame between the part that sits behind the battery doghouse and the tail.
- Functions
- Support and anchor the seat by two pins extending from the forward center section.
- Anchor the rear of the tank plastics.
- Mount the 12V fuse panel on the left rear leg.
- Protect underlying cabling from seat loading.
- Removable (vs being frame-integrated or welded) for servicing everything above the motor.
- Mounting
- Forward: 2x 10mm hex nylon locknuts, with washers.
- Rear: 2x M5 socket cap bolts, 20mm length with a 2mm shoulder, 1mm depth, 6mm outer diameter, with washers.
- Tools
- 10mm hex socket wrench with at least 20mm of depth.
- 5mm Allen key.
- Steps
- Remove the seat.
- Use the 10mm socket wrench to loosen the locknuts anchoring the forward end of the washers.
- Use the 5mm Allen key to loosen the bolts at each of the rear ends of the frame piece.
- Remove the locknuts and the bolts in a coordinated pattern to avoid putting it under asymmetrical loading.
- Take care not to lose the washers in the frame piece or in the bike's cabling areas underneath as each bolt and nut comes off.
- Installation
- Ensure the underlying cabling is placed in its original orientation to avoid strain.
- Press the frame piece's fastener holes onto the corresponding threaded bolts on the frame arch over the rear of the battery.
- Align the rear ends of the frame piece with the corresponding frame holes, and thread the bolts with washers gently into position (without tightening) to secure the frame piece.
- Thread (without tightening) the front locknuts with washers onto the forward bolts.
- Tighten the two forward nuts and rear bolts in a coordinated pattern to settle the frame piece into the right load-bearing orientation.
- Take care while tightening not to strain any cables or wiring underneath the frame piece.
Board Mounting Plate
A vertical plate aft of the battery supports both the main bike board and the DC-DC 12V converter.
The plate varies between pre-2015 model years and the following model years, likely because of the DC converter upgrade in 2015 from 300W to 500W to support ABS braking equipment power requirements.
- Attachments
- The Main Bike Board is mounted to the rear face of the plate for 2013-2014 models, and to the rear face of the upper edge of the plate on 2015+ models.
- The DC-DC 12V converter is mounted to the forward face of the plate for 2013-2014 models, and to the lower rear face of the plate on 2015+ models.
- The Accessory Charging Port is screwed to a flange at the bottom of the plate via two small M2.5 allen key bolts.
- The rubber boot covering the Accessory Charging Port is attached to the flange via plastic push-rivet.
- One cable run is zip-tied to a slot in the lower left corner of the plate, accessible under the frame arms forward of the onboard charging plug.
- Another cable run is zip-tied a slot in the lower edge of the plate closer to the right side, accessible under the frame arms behind the battery.
- Mounting
- The bracket has side flanges that affix the plate to the left and right sides of the frame.
- The top two corners of the flanges bend to the rear of the bike at a 45 degree angle, which mate to similarly-positioned flanges on the frame sides. The frame side flanges are above the plate flanges, which means when installing and removing the plate, the top must be angled towards the rear of the bike.
- The bottom two corners of the flanges bend to the rear of the bike at a 90 degree angle. The bolts which affix these corners point upwards (cap head points down).
- Fasteners
- 4x M4 socket cap bolts, 12mm length, 0.75mm? depth, 5mm outer diameter, with washers.
- 2x M2.5 socket cap bolts, 25mm length with a 6mm shoulder, 0.5mm? depth, 2.5mm outer diameter, with washers.
- 2x M3 socket cap bolts, 10mm length, 0.75mm? depth, 4mm outer diameter, with washers.
- Tools
- 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm Allen keys.
- Low clearance (under 20mm) 3mm Allen key.
- Steps
- Remove the seat.
- Remove the underseat Y-shaped frame piece.
- Detach the MBB by removing the two bolts holding it to the plate with a low-clearance 3mm Allen key.
- The right side bolt will be extremely difficult to manipulate given the cables routed very close to it; consider displacing them.
- Push the MBB aside to the left without unplugging its connectors.
- Remove the two bolts attaching the upper left and right corners, facing 45 degrees up/forward, with a 2.5mm(?) Allen key.
- Remove the two bolts attaching the lower left and right corners.
- Reach them from below the frame arms on each side of the bike, just forward of the stanchions.
- Use a 2.5mm(?) Allen key (preferably a ratcheting socket).
- Snip the cable run zip tie on the lower left corner of the plate.
- Snip the cable run zip tie on the lower edge of the plate from the right side.
- A long, narrow-bladed screwdriver can be suitable.
- Detach the Accessory Charging Port from the lower flange of the plate using a 2.5mm(?) Allen key on the two narrow bolts through the plug's body holes.
- Along the lower rear-facing edge bracket flange, push the cross-frame cable run off of the bracket.
-
- Pull the top edge of the plate to the rear of the bike so that the top mounting flange's corners clear the mating flanges on the frame.
- Gently pull the plate by the DC-DC converter up and aft, minding any cabling that can get snagged on the plate to avoid straining any wires.
- It seems easiest to pull the left side of the plate up first, to avoid clearance issues around the hydraulic lines running along the right side towards the rear brake system.
- Installation
- (Still working on this; essentially reversing the removal but considering the various fitment dependencies ahead of time to avoid trouble).
X Platform Frame
- The 2013+ Zero frame for FX/FXS (and X/MX/XU) bikes is made of anodized aluminum, weighs 20lbs, and is a combination of cast parts and welded square tubing of 1-inch outer width.
- The frame fits two power pack modules, one Long Brick module (2017), or one module and an empty space for carrying small cargo.
- The FXP fleet model has a crash guard mount option like the SP/DSP models but is smaller and mounted lower.
- Paint matching
- All models have the same anodized aluminum with a black finish/paint.
- Some paint repair suggestions on this thread are worth examining: FX frame touch up
- Iterations by Year
- Each year's frame from 2013 onward is incrementally improved and stronger than the prior year.
- The 2014 frame changed up the way the side plastics bolt on and provides for the power tank via the carrier bracket.
- The 2015 frame included pre-drilled holes for the crash guards for fleet/police models.
- The 2016 frame seems to be a little more built-up and has additional members bracing the diagonals to the main beams behind the shoulder.
- Common Frame Components
- The Swingarm is at least superficially the same as on S Platform models for the same year/generation.
- The Steering head tube seems to be the same as on S Platform models for the same year/generation.
- Frontend geometry for FX may match DS/DSR, and FXS may match S/SR.
Tail Subassembly
S Platform Tail Subassembly
On the SDS Platform models, there is a separate aluminum assembly supporting the tail plastics (and top rack accessory) that bolts into the "horns" at the aft end of the frame just after the Sevcon controller.
X Platform Tail Subassembly
The X Platform tail is entirely of plastic; the top rack accessory connects in a different way (worth confirming to understand its dynamic loading limits).
Kickstand
The kickstand for S and X platforms is made from cast aluminum and swings outward from the left side.
There is a safety interlock Hall sensor switch at the pivot that prevents the motor from operating when the kickstand is down.
Years | Model | Length | Part no |
---|---|---|---|
2013-2014? | S/SR | shorter than the DS/DSR | 20-05660 03 |
DS/DSR | 10.8" / 275mm | 20-05661 03 | |
FX | 15.0" / 380mm | 20-05662 03 | |
FXS | |||
2015+ | FX | 13.5" / 343mm | |
FXS | 11.8" / 300mm |
Both DS and FX kickstands are identical from the spring screw up to the pivot, and should interchange.
All the 2013+ kickstands uses the same pivot pin & spring.
- References
- Re: 2016 FXS Lowered Ride Height OEM Shock, Dual Use Tires, Drop Bars, Hand Guards,
- Help needed: Kickstand "bent"
- Mounting
- 3/8" E clip, Zero part no 90-0283700, also available generically.
- Clevis pin custom, Zero part no 90-0279900.
- Mounting bracket, custom
- Maintenance
- The official manual recommends keeping the pivot greased as necessary with a six-month check interval.
This replaces the Kickstand.
See Kickstand Removal and Kickstand Install for now.
- Tools
- Center lift or stand.
- Large flat-blade screwdriver or specialized tool like drum brake spring pliers for spring removal and replacement.
- E-clip tool (or needlenose pliers) for the 3/8" E-clip.
- Steps
- (When replacing) Remove the allen bolt securing the springs to the old kickstand.
- (When replacing) Transfer the 2 bronze bushings from the old kickstand:
- Remove the 2 bronze bushings from the old kickstand.
- Clean and grease bushings.
- Insert bushings into new kickstand and replace chamfered bolt with springs.
- My chamfered bolt was not very tight and I assume it was being held in from the spring tension.
- I went to tighten it all the way in but that seemed to push the springs out too far.
- I put blue Loctite on it and threaded it about half way in.
- I will check this after a few rides to ensure it does not fall out!
- Place the new kickstand onto the pivot.
- Install the pin and spring
- Pin Before Spring
- Insert the pin.
- Raise the kickstand to its stowed/horizontal position.
- This minimizes the amount of force/extension to install the new spring.
- Install the spring over the kickstand hook with a suitable tool (see tools requirements).
- Spring before pin
- Have the pin and a tapered punch that fits nicely in the hole ready to go.
- Clean the pin and apply fresh grease to it.
- Hook the springs onto the frame, grip the kickstand with both hands, put your shoulder into the bike so it won’t tip.
- While pushing straight down on the kickstand, get it onto the frame and insert the tapered punch.
- Now raise the kickstand into the stowed/horizontal position.
- Remove punch.
- The hole will be almost aligned.
- Insert the pin as far as it will go, mine stopped at the frame.
- With the kickstand still in the up position, tap the bottom of the kickstand pivot area up towards the frame with a dead blow hammer while pushing the pin in.
- This should align the hole and allow the pin to go right in.
- Insert the pin and fasten it with a new 3/8" E-clip.
- Note: This is the most difficult and dangerous part of the job.
- Use eye protection while doing this and ensure your hands won't be damaged if the spring flies back while getting it over the hook.
- Focus on applying steady force with as much leverage as possible to extend the spring back along the swingarm.
- One trick is to use a strong line looped through the hook as a pulley.
- Another trick is to bend the spring enough back and forth to insert pennies between the coils, which holds it in an extended position.
- Then loop the spring over the hook and pull the pennies out with pliers.
- Check the operation of the kickstand a few times.
- Ensure that it operates smoothly.
- Ensure the kickstand sensor detects the position of the kickstand, by checking the interlock indication on the dash while the bike is keyed on.
- Put the kickstand down before letting the motorcycle off the lift to rest on it.
- Tools
- Center lift or stand.
- Large flat-blade screwdriver or specialized tool like drum brake spring pliers for spring removal and replacement.
- E-clip tool (or needlenose pliers) for the 3/8" E-clip.
- Steps
- Place the motorcycle on a center lift or stand.
- Spring Before Pin
- Pull the spring off of the kickstand hook with a large flat blade screwdriver or a specialized kickstand spring release tool.
- Raise the kickstand to the stowed/horizontal position, to reduce spring tension.
-
Warning:
Be extremely careful working with the kickstand spring as it is under high tension. - A specialized tool makes this easier.
- Remove the pivot pin.
- Remove the kickstand.
- Pin Before Spring
- Remove the pivot pin.
- Pull the E-clip off of the inside of the pivot.
- Raise the kickstand to the stowed/horizontal position, to reduce spring tension.
- Go to the left side of bike.
- Wiggle the kickstand while tapping the pivot pin from underneath with for example a soft faced hammer.
- Continue to wiggle the kickstand while gripping the pin until it slides out.
- Often comes out by hand with a rag.
- Carefully slide kickstand away from frame and unhook springs from frame.
- The kickstand will still be under some tension from both springs, inner and outer.
Footpegs
Zero footpegs are cast aluminum pieces, mounted on identical hinges so are interchangeable across models.
- Mounting
- The mount bracket uses a custom clevis, secured with a retaining E-clip.
- Repair
- The footpegs' aluminum casting is relatively brittle, and the pegs tend to break rather than bend.
- See Footpeg Replacement.
Rider Footpegs
|
Rider Footpeg Removal
- Tools
- Snap Ring / E-Ring pliers (needlenose pliers are a common if less easy substitute).
- (Optional) 7mm Allen key to remove the clevis bracket from the frame.
- Steps
- Gently spread the gap in the retaining E-ring using the pliers until it slides over the end of the pin, and remove it.
- This clip is on the lower end of the footpeg retaining pin.
- Pull the retaining pin up and out.
- Hold and pull the pin spring and footpeg as the pin comes out.
- (Optional) Use the 7mm Allen key to remove the bolt through the clevis bracket that fastens it to the frame.
- References
- How to Remove Zero Footpegs + Relocation Ideas by NewZeroLand on Youtube
Passenger Footpegs
- Passenger footpegs are identical to the sport footpegs, since passenger geometry requires reduced legroom and a forward foot angle on the rest.
- They are not spring-loaded.
Passenger Footpeg Removal
- Tools
- Snap Ring / E-Ring pliers (needlenose pliers are a common if less easy substitute).
- 13mm hex side or socket wrench (for the bracket).
- Steps
- Gently spread the gap in the retaining E-ring using the pliers until it slides over the end of the pin, and remove it.
- This clip is on the lower end of the footpeg retaining pin.
- Pull the retaining pin up and out.
- Hold and pull the pin spring and footpeg as the pin comes out.
- (Optional) Remove the bracket
- Loosen the upper bolts mounting the footpeg brackets to the frame.
- S-platform: Reaching these bolts from the rear is easiest since they are on the inside of the frame.
- Loosen the lower bolts mounting the footpeg brackets to the frame.
- S-platform: These face the motor and allow very low overhead.
- A side wrench is recommended, and a ratcheting version preferred.
- S-platform: These face the motor and allow very low overhead.
- Remove the bolts and then the brackets.
- Loosen the upper bolts mounting the footpeg brackets to the frame.
- References
- How to Remove Zero Footpegs + Relocation Ideas by NewZeroLand on Youtube
Seat
S Platform Seat
The S Platform seat is a proprietary design and fitment.
- Seat retaining features
- A metal bracket with holes for retaining bolts that mount through the frame from the outside.
- The bracket also serves to align the seat horizontally since the outer sides of the bracket must slide directly along the inside track of the frame.
-
- The bracket's part number is 20-0508307 and when separately ordered has been observed to have slotted holes to join to the seat for some adjustability.
- In front and center, a pair of catches engages the frame's Y-shaped centerpiece under a pair of pins.
- In front on the lowest outside edge, a pair of tabs point downwards that should slide inside the frame rails.
- Without some care, these easily wind up outside the frame, flexing the seat pan and scuffing the frame lightly with plastic debris.
- Under The Seat
- The large controller dominates the space underneath the seat, on the lowest part of the tail structure.
- There's no room around the controller for anything but its cabling and a conduit for tail lighting.
- In front, the 12V fuse block is the main item to access.
- There are cables between the battery and the controller; the MBB and DC-DC converter are beneath these cables.
- Behind the controller is the tail wiring area which has a little room for a tire patch kit or some tools.
- Of course, storing tools for removing the seat there is counter-productive.
- Dimensions
- Seat
- Seat Bolts
- M8 with 1.25mm thread, 50mm long with a round end for aligning the seat bracket with the frame.
- With the top rack installed, the diameter of the hole around the head is slightly under 15mm, with a maximum offset of about 12mm.
- Seat Bracket Bolts to Seat Pan
X Platform Seat
The FX/FXS seat is closer to an offroad "plank" seat, allowing the rider to pick their position forward or back.
- Variants
- 2010-2013 X seat
- This seat offers additional height and free movement front to back.
- "The 2013 seat is also known as the off-road seat. p/n 24-01596 - SEAT ROODIN RD-M1231-K BLACK. Taller riders tend to like it as well if their butts hit the bump of the contoured seat." per comment on Facebook
- 2014-current X seat
- Has a cutout / dip.
- Tapers more at the back (pointy), and flows down the sides a bit more too. Basically it's more contoured to the bike.
- Corbin made a low seat for 2010-2012 X platform models.
Harlan at Hollywood Electrics reports that the FX seat is an exact match for the 2005-2007 Honda wikipedia:Honda_CRF_series CRF-450.
Seat Removal
This removes the seat, primarily written for the SDS Platform.
- Notes
- Unload any luggage racks before taking the seat off for an extended period of time to avoid stressing the racks.
- When luggage racks are installed, the seat bolts are load bearing (or at least damping).
- An M8-1.25x55mm socket cap bolt with a 6mm Allen head can be used if the kit bolt is lost.
- Tools
- 2015+: T45 Torx wrench (for seat bolts).
- 2013-2014 (with top or side racks): 5mm Allen key (for seat bolts).
- Steps
- When luggage racks are installed Remove the top case and/or side cases to ensure the rack is unloaded.
- Remove the M8-1.25⨉50 seat bolts.
- Pull the seat back a couple of inches and then upwards.
Seat Install
This installs the seat, primarily written for the S platform models.
- Tools
- 2015+: T45 Torx wrench (for seat bolts).
- 2013-2014 (with top or side racks): 5mm Allen key (for seat bolts).
- Steps
- When luggage racks are installed Remove the top case and/or side cases to ensure the rack is unloaded.
- Place the seat on the tail slightly to the rear of where it will sit.
- Ensure that the pan's horn-shaped catches will slip under the frame's Y-shaped centerpiece pins.
- Push the seat forward and down to sit in place.
- Visually align the holes of the seat bracket with the seat bolt holes.
- Align the seat's bracket with the frame holes to avoid wear.
- Align the seat's tabs between the frame rails to avoid stressing the seat pan and marring the frame.
- If the top rack is installed, too, check the alignment of that as well to avoid wear trying to thread the bolts.
- Insert the seat bolts, gently engaging while checking for cross-threading.
- Check for alignment again while the bolt head encounters the seat bracket.
- Many (perhaps most) owners find that pressing down and forward on the seat helps align the bolts.
- Tighten the bolt head against the frame surface to hold it in place but do not over-tighten.
- When luggage racks are installed Re-install the top case and/or side cases.
Panel Material
Zero body panels are made from ABS plastic.
- 2013-2016
- The plastics' color is molded-in, and so it fades over time with sun exposure. On the other hand, they're relatively inexpensive to replace from Zero; ask your dealer.
- Some use Plexus plastic cleaner to keep them polished successfully.
- POLYTROL Colour restorer could help with color restoration.
- Retr0bright solution developed for restoring 1980's yellowed ABS personal computer chassis material may be of use, unconfirmed.
- 2017+
- The plastics as of this model year are painted rather than molded-in.
Tank Plastics
The 2013+ S platform features a "tank" area cradled by the two front frame spars and covered by plastic bodywork.
- As delivered, it offers a storage compartment, but can also accommodate systems accessories like the OEM Power Tank battery upgrade or chargers.
- All of the bodywork for this area serve the same ergonomic functions of a traditional motorcycle's fuel tank, allowing grip for maneuvering.
- Most of this section covers the S platform bodywork, since the X platform's plastics are considerably simpler.
The X platform features a minimal set of plastic bodywork ahead of the seat which covers 12V circuitry and other cabling.
- Fasteners
- Zero plastics all are fastened with blackened M5x15mm mushroom cap socket head bolts using a 3mm allen key wrench.
- All have black plastic washers with 5mm inner diameter, 10mm outer diameter, roughly 1mm thick.
- Removal
- See Tank Plastics Removal
- Construction
- All variants of the tank plastics for have identical side pieces and a black centerpiece in soft plastic with a relatively rough finish.
- The stock centerpiece for 2013-2016 models is a bin container with two drain holes for collected moisture, with a soft bin held together with a simple zipper that anchors via hook-and-loop patches at the bottom of the bin as well as a loop cord that hooks through the front helmet lock.
- The bin delivered per model year is different and varies in quality. 2013 seemed to have better construction than 2014-2015 years, and 2016 is somewhere between.
- As of 2017, the stock centerpiece is a locking storage container with a spring-loaded hinge at the front so it swings forward to open.
- The Power Tank and Charge Tank have tank plastic options which can be bought separately or selected for color customization. Both use a relatively flat surface for the centerpiece, and the Charge Tank has a J1772-sized inlet hold with built in waterproof cover with a spring-loaded hinge.
- Separating
- The join between the centerpiece and side pieces of a Zero tank plastic assembly is made by plastic weld using a soldering iron into soft hollow plastic pins on the centerpiece that melt and flatten around a lock washer onto holes in the side pieces.
- You can break these welds using a relatively careful use of a pair of pliers to basically grip hard and twist on them until they break.
- It's a slightly frustrating process but pretty quick to achieve, in about an hour. A soldering iron or extremely narrowly-focused heat gun can help the process but try not to risk damaging the plastics from overheating.
- The original join process can be repeated for the new centerpiece.
- Also, this means that the plastic centerpiece you remove will not be re-joinable.
- Repair
- See Tank Plastics Repair for a way to re-join tank plastics that have been de-welded.
Tail Plastics
The tail plastics on the SDS platform enclose the tail subframe and support the rear brake/running lights and the license plate holder with its turn signals.
Tail Plastics Removal
This removes the S-Platform Tail Plastics from the bike.
- Note: The author documented the reassembly; removal was inferred. Confirmation would be helpful.
- Notes
- You'll be disconnecting the rear lighting wiring and removing the tail subassembly, and then removing the tail plastics from that.
- The lower plastics removal are particularly difficult, even for dealers!
- Tools
- 3mm, 4mm, 6mm Allen wrenches.
- For the seat bolts: T45 Torx wrench (without top rack) or 5mm Allen wrench (with top rack).
- Phillips screwdrivers.
- Needle nose pliers.
- Steps
- Remove the seat.
- Remove the black seat pan bolts and nylon washers with the 3mm Allen wrench
- Use a Philips screwdriver to unscrew the bolt holding down the rear of the plastic controller cover.
- Cut the cable ties around the signal wires on the left side of the seat area behind the controller.
- Disconnect the turn signal wires and brake light / plate light wires.
- Remove the 4 bolts that hold tail frame with a 6mm Allen wrench.
- This detaches the tail frame.
- Remove the tail extension using a 4mm Allen wrench. Mind the turn signal wires that go through holes here; draw them through.
- Remove the black tail enclosure plastics from the cosmetic plastics via the tabs.
- Use a Philips screwdriver to remove 5 screws holding the cosmetic plastics to the frame from underneath.
- Use a 3mm Allen wrench to remove the two screws holding the cosmetic plastics to the top of the frame.
- Reassembly
- With the tail light off, bolt the top plastic to the metal frame.
- Clamp the bottom tail plastic and screw in the 5 screws that hold both pieces together
- Here is how the black tail plastic fit with the tail light.
- Loosely bolt the end of the black tail plastic to the frame.
- Rotate the pieces up and temporarily (and loosely) attach them to the frame.
- Bolt the tail light:
- Remove the temporary bolts from the previous step.
- Push a driver down through the plastic (because of the angle of the taillight bolts).
- "Zip" the plastic back together.
- Snap the clips on the cosmetic plastic.
- Loosely bolt the tail and fit the wires back through the small hole.
- Add a new zap strap and tidy things up.
- Fasten all the loose bolts.
- (If applicable) Re-attach the top and side racks.
Lower Plastics
Lower plastics for the SDS Platform involve two side pieces to direct air towards the motor, and one in front to cover the battery.
- There is some provision for guarding the battery compartment against an impact from the front wheel in the case of a collision.
- 2012-2013
- Relatively angular and have their own bolt mount pattern.
- 2014+
- Lower plastics have a sculpted re-design to deliver more airflow to the motor for cooling.
- 2017+
- Single longbrick models (ZF6.5 and ZF7.2) have lower plastics with a latch and swinging hinge to access the storage area behind the half-size battery compartment.
Lower Plastics Removal
This removes the lower side panel plastics from 2012+ S platform models.
- Notes
- 2014+ plastics are depicted.
- Tools
- 3mm Allen key
- Steps (2014)+
- Use the 3mm Allen key to remove the three M5 bolts holding each side panel: one at the top front corner, and one at each corner near the lower edge.
- Remove each side panel.
- Use the 3mm Allen key to remove the 2 bolts on each side holding the front panel on and remove it.
- (Optional) Use the 3mm Allen key to remove the 2 M5 bolts on each side (4 total) to remove the front plastics covering the battery.
- Steps (2012-2013)
- Use the 3mm Allen wrench to remove the three M5 bolts holding each side panel.
- (Optional) Use the ball-point pen or similar non-scratching pointed tool to push the center pin to release the plastic rivets on the front panel and remove it.
- References
- Adapted from this forum post.
Steering
Ignition Lock
The ignition is mounted on the tripe clamp top in the center between the steering head and the dash.
The ignition wiring connects to a ZADI motorcycle lock with a steering lock feature and parking light enable (although the parking light enable is not connected on the Zero).
- Key Blanks
- Key blanks can typically be ordered from a dealer.
- Key blanks appear to be available generically as JMA ZA9P1 FOR ZADI ZD23RCP.
- In USA, calling them "Triumph" keys may help a locksmith find the right blank.
- Maintenance
Occasional lock lubrication is recommended, and inspection of the wires for startup enable on the underside of the lock for reliability.
- Troubleshooting
- See the faulty ignition switch troubleshooting guide for issues with this.
Tank Lock
The lock for the tank bag (2013-2016) or tank compartment (2017+) and possibly a helmet is keyed the same as the ignition.
- Mounting
- The tank bag lock (2013-2016) is mounted to the frame by two (M5?) bolts under the steering head.
- It's very difficult to access without taking much of the frontend apart (as it should be, for theft deterrence).
- References
- ZADI lock re-pin
Mirrors
- Design
- Pre-2015 (Gen1) Zeros use an angular mirror with a ball mount joint that allows rotating the mirrors 360 degrees.
- Many riders turn the mirrors upside down for a little wider visibility around the shoulder/arms.
- 2015+ (Gen2 and Gen3) Zeros use a mirror stalk with an inboard ball mount with about 30 degrees of freedom from the stalk.
- Mount
- Zero mirrors are mounted from the handlebars with Yamaha/Ducati-style bolt fitting.
- The bolt/thread specification is M10x1.25, left-hand-threaded on the right side and standard right-hand-threaded on the left side.
- Maintenance
- (pre-2015) Check that the set screw holding mirror position holds it firmly.
- Use a corrosion inhibitor or thread-locker for the set screws and the mount threading since these are weather-exposed.
See Third-Party Mirrors for workable/tested replacements.
Handlebar
Zero's models all steer with a handlebar.
- S/SR and FXS models share a shorter, sportier handlebar shape.
- DS/DSR and FX models share a wider, straighter handlebar shape.
- Both S/FXS and DS/FX style handlebars are standard through-bars that are 1 1/8" (28mm) through the middle section and 7/8" (22mm) in the outer section.
Handlebar Clamps
- The S and X platform handlebar clamps are 2" by 1 1/8" (28mm) for the entire line of models, clamped with M10 cap screw bolts (35mm length; possibly 50mm?).
Handlebar Switch Assemblies
- The switch assemblies are fastened with TT20 (1/4 inch) tamper-resistant Torx bolts through the underside.
Handgrips
Handgrips have a Zero logo on them but otherwise are reasonably good stock grips for the 7/8" (22mm) handlebar width at the end of the bars.
Bar Ends
For 2014+ models, any bar end accessories that match the 14mm inner diameter will fit.
- The stock bar ends are round plastic bumpers held in by plastic threads, so can be removed with a little twisting and pulling.
- 2013 models
- Bar ends are covered by the grip so are not easily changed without changing the grips.
- Zero did offer heated grips for these models but dropped them after changing the bars in 2014.
Brake Lever
Zero motorcycles have a right-hand lever for the front brake, as is common for motorcycle designs.
- Primary adjustment
- The brake lever has a dial for adjusting the lever position relative to pad pressure and rider finger reach; set it however lets you operate it comfortably and safely.
- Micro-Switch and Set Screw
- A set screw on the inside of the lever adjusts how a micro-switch is depressed.
- The micro-switch is what activates the rear brake light and the "braking regen" mode at the same time.
- Any adjustment or replacement of the brake lever should be followed by recalibrating this set screw to get the desired effect.
- Too much free play and the switch will activate when going over bumps and result in a slightly jerky ride.
- There is some guidance on how to adjust this: Brake Lever Regens before Pad Contact.
- It seems like there's small difference in how this set screw is secured in stock lever compared to replacement lever (2016 SR), even though they look identical. I wasn't able to adjust this screw on stock lever, however replacement lever adjusts with no issues. You will need 7/64 SAE hex key to adjust.
- Use some light threadlock compound (Blue Loctite will do) to fix the set screw in the desired position if it seems to move too freely out of the desired range.
- Adjustment
- See Front Brake Lever Adjustment
- Removal, Repair
- See Front Brake Lever Replacement
Triple Clamp
The triple clamp tree attaches the fork tubes to the frame via the steering head bearing.
The design and fitment changed from MY 2013-2014 to MY 2015+, when the forks changed from FastAce to Showa.
- Upper Assembly
- This sits atop the steering head, joining the forks at the top, and supports the handlebars, ignition switch, dash, and headlamp.
- Lower Assembly
- This inserts upward through the steering head tube, joining the forks below the tube, and supports the headlamp bracket and the high fender for DS/DSR/FX models.
The upper assembly and lower assembly join around/through the steering head.
Steering Head
The steering head is the tube in the head position of the frame that mounts the fork steerer tube.
For 2014+ S and X-platform Zeros, the inner diameter of the steering head is 55mm for a steering tube size of 1in (25.4mm).
- Steering head fastener stack (top to bottom)
- Steering Stem Thin Nut (M27⨉1.5mm, 8mm depth); apply a 41mm hex socket.
- Washer 41 - 27.5mm⌀, 2mm thickness (reportedly not present on 2018+ models)
- Steering Stem Lock Nut (M30⨉1.5mm)
- Bearing Lip Seal (55mm OD)
- Steering Head Bearing (facing up)
- Lower Triple Clamp Assembly Tube
- Steering Head Bearing (facing down)
- Bearing Lip Seal (55mm OD)
Steering Head Bearing
The steering head bearing is a tapered roller bearing in the frame's steering head tube.
- Troubleshooting
- Steering stickiness or wobble may indicate an inadequately greased steering head bearing or a worn bearing.
Platform | Years | Dimensions | Stock Model | Part # | Description |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
S,X | 2014-2018 |
|
Koyo SAC3055-1 | ZM20-06068 | Angular-contact caged ball bearings |
- Replacement
- See Steering stem bearing replacement ('14-'17, all models) described for a 2014FX.
- Reference
- ZeroDS head bearing (2015)
- DSR 17 steering head bearings
- Steering stem bearing replacement ('14-'17, all models)
Front Fender
The front fender covers the front wheel and acts as a mudguard against the front electrics and the front panel of the battery casing.
- The S/SR front fender is a colored or painted panel like the tank plastics that hugs the tire.
- The DS/DSR/FX/FXS front fender is an ABS plastic dual sport high fender.
- Sport Fender
- The S/SR front fender is a colored or painted panel like the tank plastics that hugs the (17") front tire.
- It bolts directly onto the FXS' lower forks around its tire even though the FXS comes with a dual sport fender.
- TODO: confirm fasteners and bolt pattern.
- Dual Sport Fender
- The dual sport fender attaches to the underside of the front fork triple tree.
- This fender also fits a S/SR model.
- 4 holes in a rectangular shape 58mm (2.3in) wide and 50mm (1.95in) front to back (center to center).
- The bolts are M5x15mm button head socket screw for a 3mm Allen key.
- A Honda or Yamaha dual sport fender should fit this pattern without modification.
Wheels
Wheel Maintenance
Check Tire Pressure
Maintain minimum pressure per the manual.
- General guidelines
- Higher tire pressures help stability and reduce rolling resistance with a passenger or a lot of luggage, but lower pressures help on rougher/gravel surfaces.
- Official recommendations are for "cold" tires, which means when they haven't been ridden in a few hours.
- As tires warm up from riding, pressure increases due to the interior air heating from friction and mechanical work on the tire by the road against the wheel.
- Excessive tire pressure can make the tire too sensitive to sharp debris or potholes, and increases the risk of a puncture. 45psi is where this definitely becomes a concern; modulate depending on your riding, and definitely use much lower pressures for offroading.
Front Wheel
Front Wheel Removal
- Video Instruction
- Zero DS front wheel removal by Nigel Morris on YouTube:
- Zero Motorcycles: Front Wheel Removal 2016 DSR by Eric Shattow on YouTube:
- Tools
- 6mm Allen Wrench - Axle bolt (M17)
- 5mm Allen Wrench - Pinch
- 13mm Socket - Brake calipers
- Steps
- Loosen both brake caliper bolts using the 13mm socket.
- Loosen both right pinch bolts using the 5mm allen wrench.
- Alternate slightly, turning each counter-clockwise.
- Loosen the axle bolt using the 6mm allen wrench.
- Loosen both left pinch bolts using the 5mm allen wrench.
- Alternate slightly, turning each counter-clockwise.
- Securely lift the front wheel.
- Remove both brake bolts using the 13mm socket, and lift and secure the brake caliper without stressing the brake lines.
- Continue to back off the pinch bolts, but do not remove, using the 5mm allen wrench.
- Remove the axle bolt and outer spacer using the 6mm allen wrench.
- Replace the axle bolt with the 6mm allen bolt, turning several turns inward, without the outer spacer.
- Push on the axle bolt while encouraging the left side of the axle out.
- Support the wheel to reduce binding!
- Remove the axle.
- Remove the wheel.
Front Axle
- TODO measurements
Front Tire
See Stock Tires.
Front Bearings
The front bearings are the same size as the rear bearings (see table there for sizing), although the front has only two bearings instead of 3 for the rear.
- TODO
- Spacer specs
Front Bearing Replacement
- Tools
- 6mm Allen Wrench - Axle (M17)
- 5mm Allen Wrench - Pinch
- 13mm Socket - Brakes
- Bearing Press Tool/Kit
- Steps
- Remove the Front Wheel
- Remove the spacers, then the dust seals, from each side and clean.
- Press the bearings out from the opposite side.
- A socket extension works well, alternating around the perimeter.
- Clean the inner wheel.
- Press the new bearings in, aligning with the inner axle tube.
- A large socket works well to press only on the outer bearing.
- Replace the dust seals.
- Return the wheel to the bike.
- Aligning the axle with the spacers, press the axle back into the forks.
- Expand the brake calipers to prepare for remounting.
- Remount brake caliper with the 13mm socket to the correct torque.
- Return the outer spacer and make the axle bolt snug with the 6mm allen wrench.
- Alternate tightening each 5mm pinch bolt.
- Ensure proper wheel movement.
- Tighten left pinch bolts to the correct torque using the 5mm allen wrench.
- Tighten the 6mm Axle bolt to the correct torque.
- Tighten right pinch bolt to correct torque using the 5mm allen wrench.
- Ensure smooth movement.
- Pump the brakes to return to proper action.
- Lower the front wheel.
- Confirm torques.
- Test ride!
- Reconfirm torques.
- Paint the bolt heads to so that any loosening is detectable.
Rear Wheel
Rear Tire
See Stock Tires.
Rear Wheel Removal
Pulling out the axle and removing the rear wheel is straightforward; the complexity is in re-assembly: see Rear Wheel Install.
- Items to note for re-assembly
- Note how the caliper sits against the swingarm.
- Note the order and arrangement of the spacers.
- Video Guide
- Zero Motorcycles: Rear Wheel Removal 2016 DSR by Eric Shattow
- Tools
- 27mm socket
- Breaker bar
- Instructions
- Place the motorcycle on a lift or rear stand so the wheel spins freely.
- Mark/photograph where the alignment marks reside on each side of the axle for re-alignment when re-installing the wheel.
- Loosen the rear axle nut on the right side (27mm) with the breaker bar.
- Remove the rear axle nut.
- Pull the axle part-way out so that the wheel can be moved forward enough to loosen the belt.
- Pull the belt off of the rear sprocket and let it hang outside of the swingarm slightly to avoid interfering with the wheel.
- Pull the axle through the wheel from the left side.
- Pay attention to the brake caliper: it's attached via the axle, and when the axle is removed the caliper, etc, will come loose.
- Set aside the spacers with alignment marks, noting which goes on which side.
- Set aside the axle and axle nut.
- Pull the wheel out behind the swingarm.
- The license plate tail holder will likely require rolling the wheel out at an angle to clear it.
Rear Wheel Install
Re-installing the rear wheel requires somewhat careful fitment of the wheel, spacers, ABS sensor (2015+), and brake calipers within the swingarm.
- Pay attention while removing the wheel to have this arrangement in mind to avoid confusion.
- Any play in the caliper position or the wheel itself could have a dramatic and damaging effect on the motorcycle while riding.
- Tools
- 27mm socket
- Torque wrench set to 75ft-lbs (102Nm)
- (Optional) rubber mallet to nudge the axle
- Instructions
- Also see Belt Adjustment
- Ensure that the axle has grease applied if it is dry, to minimize friction and wear against it under load.
- Push the axle through the alignment bracket and left swingarm until flush on the inside of the left swingarm.
- Place the rear brake caliper holder onto the right swingarm.
- For 2015+ models, place the ABS rear wheel speed sensor on the inside of the rear brake caliper holder.
- Route the wire feeding the speed sensor around the caliper holder bracket and ensure that the sensor and wire will install without tension or excessive bending.
- Roll the wheel into position inside of the axle.
- Ensure the speed sensor on the right side mates with and covers the rear wheel bearing before it aligns with the rear brake caliper holder on the right side, as this "sandwiches" together.
- Ensure that the brake calipers are pushed to maximum expansion, then place them around the rear wheel brake disc on the right side.
- Push the axle through the wheel by hand or use a rubber mallet to gently nudge the axle through the wheel.
- You may need to give the wheel a wedge underneath to rest on to minimize any stress on the axle while aligning it fully.
- Align the right side of the wheel with the swingarm axle hole and brake caliper holder on the right side.
- Again, manually push or nudge with a rubber mallet the axle through the speed sensor, rear brake caliper holder, and right swingarm.
- Run the belt over the rear sprocket.
- Center the belt over the sprocket so it has about 1mm on either side.
- Ensure that all components are aligned correctly before attempting to tighten the axle or even before mating the left axle end with the swingarm (which tightens the belt).
- Place the axle nut onto the right side of the axle by hand.
- Note the alignment of the left and of the axle's rectangular tabs; hold it in a horizontally aligned position so that tightening the axle nut places it inline with the swingarm slot.
- Tighten the axle nut (27mm) with the torque wrench to 75ft-lbs.
- Ensure the alignment of the axle head on the left side is horizontal and pulls the belt under tension smoothly.
- Check belt tension per the belt adjustment procedure.
Rear Bearings
The rear wheel contains 3 bearings and dust shields.
Years | Platform | Kind | Type Code | Measurements | Lifespan (guide) |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
2012-2014 | S | Unsealed | 6904-2RS | 20x37x9 | ~20,000 miles |
X | 6204 | 20x47x14 | |||
2015-2020 | S | Sealed | NSK 6204DU | ~50,000 miles | |
X |
- References
- Precision bearings & replacement.
- Anyone know front wheel bearing size.
- Ceramic bearings for a 2014SR, with success reported for at least as long as the original bearings. The author is going back to steel.
- Per Terry Hershner
- The 2012-2014 wheel bearings are 6904 bearings which are bicycle sized bearings.
- They lasted me about 20,000 miles per set.
- Best is to use a 2015 wheel on the 2014 which will work but requires modification of the spacers.
- I did it on my 2012. It now has 2015 wheels.
Rear Bearings Replacement
- Rayivers on Wheel bearing replacement ('14 FX, 6904 bearings)
- Removal was pretty straightforward with a Motion Pro blind bearing removal kit.
- Pullers like these are the only way I know of to remove wheel bearings without risk of damage to the hub or center spacer
- They pull against the small chamfer on the inner-race I.D.
- Greg Hassler reports
- "I use my brake caliper piston puller, 20mm size works great." https://www.klsupply.com/general-equipment/brake-caliper-pist-puller-set-35-6885.asp
- Togo found this tool to work well for 6904-2RS on 2014 Zero SR
- https://smile.amazon.com/Wheels-Manufacturing-Sealed-Bearing-Extractor/dp/B00NIPRNA4/
- See Also
Suspension
Front Suspension
Zero's motorcycles all feature telescoping fork front suspension.
Front Suspension Specs
Fork | Shock | ||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Years | Manufacturer | Description | Material | Model | Part# | Travel | Measurements | Oil | Material | Part# | Measurements |
2009-2010 | FastAce | DS/X | BDA53AR (discontinued) | ||||||||
2012-2013 | 38mm (from Zero website/manual) inverted forks with adjustable compression and rebound damping |
6061-T6 Forged Aluminum (per this thread) Chrome-Moly inner tube; Alloy steel spring wire |
S | ALX07RC (discontinued) 22-05418-03
|
140mm | Compression 12 clicks; Rebound 21 clicks |
6061-T6 Forged Aluminum (per this thread) |
BDA58RC (discontinued) | |||
DS |
(APX05RC? or APX10AR? (discontinued)) |
7.00 in (178 mm) | clarification?
|
BFA57RC (discontinued)) |
| ||||||
FX/MX/XU | XU - ALX07RC AP18A0179-B002 22-02749-01 |
|
|||||||||
2014 | 43 mm inverted forks with adjustable compression and rebound damping |
6061-T6 Forged Aluminum (per this thread) Chrome-Moly inner tube; Alloy steel spring wire |
S/SR | 6.25 in (159 mm) |
6061-T6 Forged Aluminum (per this thread) |
BDA58RC (discontinued) | |||||
DS | APX16RC - 22-06867-05
|
7.00 in (178 mm) | Compression 11 clicks; Rebound 20 clicks | BFA57RC (discontinued)) |
| ||||||
FX | 230mm | ||||||||||
2015-2020 | Showa | 41 mm inverted cartridge forks, with adjustable spring preload, compression and rebound damping |
|
S/SR | 6.25 in (159 mm) |
|
|
|
|||
DS/DSR | 7.00 in (178 mm) | ||||||||||
FX |
|
|
|
22-05879-02 |
| ||||||
FXS |
Fork Oil Change and Spring Replacement
- Fork Oil Level Note
- Measure from outer tube end to oil surface (Condition: spring, spring joint, spring collar, seat rubber, slider, fork bolt are removed and dust seal touches axle holder)
- Reference
- FastAce fork oil change / spring replacement+ part 2 by Ray Ivers
- Tools
- 7mm Allen wrench for riser bolts.
- Steps
- Put the motorcycle on a stand.
- Remove the risers and handlebars using a 7mm Allen wrench.
- Loosen the fork caps, front axle, and brake caliper bolts while the front wheel is on the ground.
- Fork cap / spring removal...
- Oil change...
- Fork spring / cap replacement...
- Notes
What | Torque | Bolt |
---|---|---|
Handlebar clamps | 15 ft/lb | M8 |
Handlebar risers | 25 ft/lb | M10 |
Triple clamps (all) | 15 ft/lb | M8 |
Fork caps | 15 ft/lb | M46 |
F caliper bolts | 18 ft/lb | M8 |
F axle end cap | 15 ft/lb | M8 |
F Axle clamps | 9 ft/lb | M6 |
Fork Cartridge Revalving
Fast Ace fork revalving by Ray Ivers
The procedure is described in great detail for FastAce (2013-2014) suspension but could be adapted for the newer Showa suspension.
Verify Fork Spring Rate
- Reference
- How to Verify Fork Spring Rate
- Tools
- A tip-tie long enough to wrap around the fork tube.
- Steps
- Add a zip-tie to the the fork tube.
- Make sure it is snug so it stays in the place it was last pushed too.
- Once the zip-tie is on the fork tube, you push it up to rest it against the upper fork.
- Measure bike sag (unloaded)
- Lift the front fork off the ground and measure the gap (zip-tie to fork gap) created by the front weight of the bike.
- Measure rider sag (loaded)
- Now push zip-tie back up the fork, then sit on the bike and raise your feet so all of your weight is carried through the suspension.
- Then carefully dismount and put kickstand down.
- Measure the gap (zip-tie to fork) created by your weight.
- Add this gap measurement to the bike sag measurement, this is the total sag.
- This measurement should be around 25% of the working range of the front suspension.
- Now that is a guideline; it can be higher or lower than 25%.
- It depends on what is happening when you are loading up the suspension (upper end).
- Checking the upper end by using the zip-tie.
- After riding, check the location of the zip-tie: the gap from the fork to the zip-tie.
- Lets say the measurement is 5". Then you would know the total max travel used was 5" + bike sag measurement.
- That total measurement should never equal the total suspension travel amount (6", I think based on your posting).
- If it equal, then you are bottoming out. Increase the preload and see if this keeps you from bottoming out.
- If you use max preload and are still bottoming out, you will need stronger springs.
- If you find you are only using 75% to 80% of the max suspension travel, you can reduce the preload spacer length some or you can live with this.
- If you are only using ~50% or less of the suspension travel, your springs are probably too stiff. You should swap springs to a lower rate spring.
Rear Shock
Rear Shock Mounting
The rear shock fastens to the Swingarm by an M10 bolt.
The upper mount reaches the frame centertube ahead of the controller heatsink area so is difficult to access.
Rear Shock Specifications
Years | Brand | Model | Description | Media | Specs | Models | Travel | Length |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2013-2014 | FastAce | BDA58RC | Piggy-back reservoir shock with adjustable spring preload, compression and rebound damping |
|
S/SR | 6.35 in (161 mm) | 10.25-10.5 in (260mm) | |
DS | 7.03 in (179 mm) | |||||||
BFA57RC
|
|
FX | ||||||
2015-2020 | Showa | 40 mm piston, piggy-back reservoir shock with adjustable spring preload, compression and rebound damping | S/SR | 6.35 in (161 mm) | ||||
DS/DSR | 7.03 in (179 mm) |
Rear Shock Substitions
Years | Models | Worked? | Description |
---|---|---|---|
2013-2014 | S/SR | Yes | JRI Double-Adjustable Shocks per 2014 SR shock absorber replacement by Doug S with Harlan's help. |
Yes (with machining) | Wotefusi [1] 260mm Central Air Shock Absorber Universal Fit - fits when mounted upside down. Need to cut/grind down the bushing. | ||
Yes (with machining) | TDPRO 260mm 10.2 [2] Almost fits; the area on top of the spring is just slightly too large. You can take a grinder and shave away some of the top to make it fit. [3] | ||
NO | The Yamaha R3 has the same length rear shock, but the spring is too wide. | ||
NO | Fastace Rear Shock BDA-51AR/58-AR has a weaker spring, and is rotated 90 degrees. [4] | ||
Mixed results - new orders may have all the kinks worked out. | IKON 3610-ZERO-S Shock Absorber [5] - The spring is too wide at the top, and to be installed, the sping must be compressed. When Installation is complete, the spring is always compressed by at least a couple centimeters. | ||
Mixed results - Get dimensions from Wilber's dealer before ordering - theirs is ~279mm | Wilbers Shock absorber Type 640 Road Part. No.: 640-1143-00 [6] Wilbers claims the shock fits "2011-2013 S M5" (which does not exist). The M5 designation is buried in the VIN of the 2014 S; and may or may not be relevant. This shock could be mislabeled for the DS. Make sure to get full dimensions before ordering. | ||
Yes - DO NOT BUY | ZXTDR Rear Shock Absorber Suspension Sensa-Trac Load Adjusting for Dirt Pit Bike Motorcycle 1200LBS. [7] This shock phyisically fits, but underperforms. It feels like you're riding on a trampoline. You get what you pay for. |
Rear Shock Adjustment
- Notes
- The Official Manual section on Rear Shock Adjustment illustrates how to measure preload and check sag.
- Compression
- The official manual's description here is adequate and this can be done readily by hand on the right side of the bike at the top of the shock.
- Rebound
- The adjustment knob is at the bottom of the shock facing rear, as described in the manual, and can be worked by hand or with a wrench with a careful reach into that area.
- Spring Preload
- The official manual illustrates the collar and procedure for spring preload adjustment, but does not recommend a specific tool, and there are clearance issues in that area for tools.
- The adjuster sleeve diameter is 58mm (2.3").
- A Stockton spanner wrench was found to be suitable for the job if modified as follows (per 2017 DSR Showa rear shock spanner wrench):
- Grind the nose of the wrench to fit the notches.
- Bend the wrench a couple of degrees to clear the Sevcon motor controller fins.
- Obviously, a better solution is still worth seeking.
- A small suspension wrench / ER collet spanner size 30/32 can be use even with the lack of clearance
Final Drive
Swingarm
The swingarm is a dual-sided structure made in the same way as the frame. It's very sturdily constructed for its light weight.
The front pivots on the axis of the motor to minimize belt strain with suspension travel.
It has fitments for the rear axle including belt tension adjustment.
- Mounting
- The swingarm joins the frame at left and right pivot points.
- The each side pivot has a stack of (from outside inward):
- A rubber cover
- A bolt with a 10mm hex drive.
- The bearing (6204; 6204RS for 2015+ models)
Swingarm Tube
There is a hollow tube through the swingarm across the arms forming a join point for the rear shock to the frame tube.
- Its shape is flattened on the rear side, presumably to clear the largest-diameter potential tire.
- It makes a reasonable storage tube if some padding or caps are used to secure the cargo there (like a charging cord).
Inner diameter | 75mm | 2.91" |
Horizontal width to flat side | 68mm | 2.68" |
Swingarm greatest width below tube | 295mm | 11.61" |
- References
- Re: Through-frame security aperture size?
Swingarm Bearings
The swingarm bearings are generally the same as the wheel bearings (6204; 6204RS for 2015+ models).
Swingarm Removal
- Tools
- Center lift or other lift that gets the rear wheel off the ground without contacting the swingarm.
- 27mm socket or spanner.
- 3mm Allen key.
- 10mm Allen key socket
- Ensure at least 1" depth and a ⅜" drive sufficient to handle swingarm pivot bolt torques.
- 15mm socket wrench (S models).
- 13mm socket wrench (X models).
- Torque wrench capable of setting 75ft-lbs and driving the 27mm socket and 10mm Allen key.
- 2012-2013:
- 2.5mm Allen key.
- 24mm socket wrench.
- Steps
- NOTE: For roadside removal, particularly for an FX or FXS, setting the bike on its side should be possible for this work.
- However, no effective procedure has been described for the process.
- The following steps are suited to garage locations.
- Use a lift to raise the bike from the center.
- A sturdy wood crate may work in a pinch. Be safe.
- If the lift can be adjusted, lift the rear wheel just off the ground for ease of removal and replacement (lower than depicted but not in contact).
- Pull the wheel off (or slide it forward) by loosening the axle nut with a 27mm wrench.
- Pull off the rear tire fender by taking out the 4 hex bolts securing it with a 3mm Allen wrench.
- You can get away with removing only the left-side screws, to allow lifting the fender up enough to get the belt under.
- The right side fasteners also anchor the brake line to the rear calipers and a grounding strap, so mind them for re-attaching in the same way.
- Remove the brake pedal:
- This creates clearance for loosening the swingarm bolt above it (might be optional for pre-2015 models).
- Get the rear brake pedal out of the way of the right side swingarm pivot bolt.
- S platform: Use the 15mm hex socket to loosen or remove the bolt forming the pedal pivot.
- X platform:
- Remove the pin that attaches the brake pedal to the piston.
- Remove the two 13mm bolts that hold the grey piston bracket to the frame, and gently move the whole assembly to the left.
- X platform: To access the left swingarm bolt, remove the lower left passenger peg bolt (13mm) and remove the grey cover piece.
- Remove the left and right swingarm bolts.
- 2012-2013
- Remove the set screws from the swingarm bolts on both sides with a 2.5mm Allen wrench.
- The set screw is very difficult to find.
- It is located in one of the sides of the 24mm hex nut, perpendicular to the long axis of the 10mm allen bolts.
- It is actually on the edge of the nut.
- The best way to locate it is to use a small mirror and a strong flashlight.
- Then remove the bolts by holding the inside nut with a 24mm wrench, and a 10mm hex on the head.
- This was the hardest step, because there is not a lot of room to manipulate in the rear assembly - especially with a 24mm wrench!
- 2014+
- Remove the left and right swing arm bolts with a 10mm Allen wrench.
- Hang the swing arm with a strap on the tail section.
- The swingarm will pull back enough for the belt to fit through the frame.
- Remove the belt.
- Disconnect the rear shock from the swingarm, then gently pull the swingarm from its suspended arrangement. Take car that the small spacers do not fall out and roll away, one on each side.
- References
- Swingarm Bolt Set Screw?
Rear Axle
The rear axle is hollow, threaded on the right side and capped on the left for swingarm fitment.
Years | Inner Diameter | Outer Diameter | Pitch |
---|---|---|---|
2013-2014 | |||
2015+ | 11mm | 20mm | 1.25mm |
Removal
This is part of Rear Wheel Removal.
- Tools
- 27mm socket
- Breaker bar
- Instructions
- Place the motorcycle on a lift or rear stand so the wheel spins freely.
- Mark/photograph where the alignment marks reside on each side of the axle for re-alignment when re-installing the wheel.
- Loosen the rear axle nut on the right side (27mm) with the breaker bar.
- Remove the rear axle nut.
- Pull the axle part-way out so that the wheel can be moved forward enough to loosen the belt.
- Pull the belt off of the rear sprocket and let it hang outside of the swingarm slightly to avoid interfering with the wheel.
- Pull the axle through the wheel from the left side.
Install
Belt
Zero uses a belt for primary transmission of torque to the rear wheel. It's quiet and lightweight but is a proprietary design that can wear out. If you plan to put a lot of miles on a Zero or risk the belt often, buy a spare belt ahead of time and mind its maintenance.
Belt Risks
Drive belts fail by snapping or by stripping the teeth.
- On Landing
- The most common situation for a belt snap is when going over a major bump or jump where the rear wheel leaves the ground.
- If, while airborne, the throttle is not immediately relaxed, the rear wheel will rapidly spin up.
- A wheel that is moving extremely quickly in the air will get jerked back to its regular speed on landing. This is transmitted to the belt through the rear sprocket and can easily strip teeth.
- From Debris
- Gravel or sand that gets thrown between sprocket teeth and the belt will force the belt to expand quickly under load, and can cause it to snap.
- Reportedly, sand is a much more reliable path to belt failure than gravel.
- The sprocket tooth design is meant to deflect gravel to the inside of the swingarm towards the wheel.
- The bike has an upper debris guard made of soft ABS plastic, but does not have a lower guard.
- From Mis-Alignment
- An unaligned belt can wear really badly and break sooner.
Belt Specifications
Zero's final drive is a custom-designed Gates HTD (high torque drive) Poly Chain Carbon toothed carbon fiber belt.
- It's never been available outside of Zero's parts system.
- It's been the same part for 2012-2016 models.
- 2017 models shifted to a wider belt that can accommodate more torque/loading.
Years | Width | Pitch | Models | Sprockets | Number of Teeth | Length | OEM Part No. | Photo |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2010-2011 | 14mm | 8mm | S/DS | 98T / 28T | 200 |
|
||
2012-2016 | S/SR | 132T / 28T | 220 |
|
![]() | |||
DS/DSR | 130T / 28T | |||||||
2017-2018 | 17mm | 14mm | S 13.0 | 130T / 28T | ||||
|
90T / 20T | 158 |
|
![]() |
- Part
- Gates GT Carbon, 14mm wide, 8mm pitch, 220 teeth. It's only available from Zero.
- P/N's are 30-03673 ("Belt Drive, 220T, 8mm Pitch, 14mm Wide") and also 30-08084 (same belt w/new Zero logo).
- One rough match for reference: Gates 8MGT-1760-12 Belt
Belt Tension Check
- Krikit Tension Gauge
Zero recommends the Gates Krikit belt tension gauge to check belt tension.
- Video Guide
- MostlyBonkers made a How-to video:
- Tips
- Turning the back wheel backwards before measuring will give different readout compared to turning the wheel forwards before measuring using the same spot.
- The difference may be significant to the (pre-2017) 20-30kg belt tension specification.
- For wide-belt 2017+ models, the tension specification is very wide (~25-75kg) and thus has a lot of leeway but seems worth a rotational check anyway.
- The center of the belt can be reached from below, without removing the mudguard.
- This is described as a note in 5.14 in the 2015 manual
- Ensure the blue indicator arm is pressed down.
- Place the gauge in the center of the belt span, such that it is aligned longitudinally with the belt length.
- Place a finger on the blue pressure pad and depress this pressure pad.
- Keep pressing the blue pressure pad until you feel and hear a distinct 'click'. When this 'click' sound is heard, do not press any further.
- Remove the gauge and read the belt tension by observing the point where the top side of the blue indicator arm crosses the numbered scale on the gauge body.
- Care must be taken to ensure that the gauge is not 'rocked' when pressing down on the blue pressure pad. The strap above the pressure bar is provided to attach snugly over the finger and prevent any 'rocking' motion.
- Due to the fact that this device requires some amount of practice and operator skill, the accuracy and repeatability of the tension readings are not high.
- Improvement
- Because this procedure is not trivial to perform consistently, there is a modification to make the tension gauge easier to align
- Gates' Carbon Drive mobile app
- As of 2017, the Official Owners Manual also includes a procedure using Gates' Carbon Drive mobile app to check belt tension.
- Usage
- Use the application in a quiet environment.
- Pluck the belt near the center of the lower belt span, so it vibrates like a guitar string.
Belt Type | Years | Resonant Frequency | Tension Range |
---|---|---|---|
Narrow | 2013-2016 | 96.3 Hz – 124 Hz | 20 – 30kg |
Wide | 2017+ (except S 13.0) | 42.5 Hz – 73.6 Hz | 25 – 76.5kg |
The frequency can also be checked with instrument tuning apps such as Tuner-gStrings for Android.
Belt Adjustment
An unaligned or mis-tensioned belt can wear really badly and break sooner.
The official manual has a good procedure from which this is derived. Check that first.
Alignment of the belt is critically tough to get correct, and needs to be done everytime adjusting tension.
- Video instruction
- Zero SR: How To Adjust Your Belt on Youtube by NewZeroLand:
- Tools
- 27mm hex socket
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench set to 75ft/lbs or 102Nm
- 13mm open-end wrench
- Instructions
- Place the motorcycle on a lift or rear stand so the wheel spins freely.
- Loosen the rear axle nut on the right side (27mm) with the breaker bar.
- Loosen both left and right belt tension jam nuts (13mm) that face forward inside the adjusting gap.
- Turn both left and right adjustment nuts (13mm) one quarter turn at a time to the desired belt tension.
- Ensure that the alignment marks on either side of the swingarm indicate that the wheel and belt are aligned.
- Roll the wheel forward and track it flush with inside of rear sprocket.
- For proper alignment, the belt will track exactly centered on the wheel sprocket with a 1mm gap to either side of the belt relative to the sprocket.
- Once tension is set and tracking is flush to the inside, tightening the axle nut to 75ft-lbs will tend to nudge belt approximately 1mm to the outside.
- Measure tension by rolling the wheel forward while plucking bottom side of belt or using tension gauge over several revolutions.
- Expect tension to vary slightly as wheel is rotated because front and rear sprockets are only round to a certain design tolerance.
- Check that the belt is aligned with belt tension in the right range.
- Re-tighten the left and right jam nuts (13mm).
- Tighten the axle nut (27mm) with the torque wrench (to 75ft-lbs).
Belt Wear
Generally, watch for belt damage and try to anticipate when to replace the belt to avoid an incident on the road where the belt snaps.
- What to Check
- Check the teeth for wear and cracks.
- If you see cracks in the tooth forming, the belt is getting old.
- If you see deep cracks starting, it's time to replace the belt ASAP.
- When to Replace
- When it snaps.
- When any teeth have been ground off.
- Hard Skips
- If the belt experiences a "hard skip" from debris between the belt and a sprocket, it is likely to fail soon after. Watch it carefully if this happens.
- Tension with aging
- Apparently, per forum user JaimeC, belts don't wear like chains.
- As they get older they'll actually get tighter, not looser like a chain.
- When a chain ages, the little bearing points between the links and rollers wear causing the chain to hang looser.
- When a belt ages, the rubber on the inner/toothed side begins to swell.
- Since the Kevlar belt on the outer circumference won't stretch, the inner circumference will shrink making the belt tighter around the sprockets.
- Generally, you want to make sure the belt hasn't gotten any tighter since you brought it home.
Belt Replacement
Ask your dealer/Zero before replacing it.
- They may perform it under warrantee if it happened prematurely; and they'll likely want to understand how and why it broke, anyway, for quality reasons.
- Video Guide
- Zero emergency toothed belt by UW4E on YouTube:
- Tools
- Center lift.
- 27mm socket.
- 3mm Allen key.
- 10mm Allen key socket
- Ensure at least 1" depth and a ⅜" drive sufficient to handle swingarm pivot bolt torques.
- 15mm socket wrench (S models).
- 13mm socket wrench (X models).
- Torque wrench capable of setting 75ft-lbs and driving the 27mm socket and 10mm Allen key.
- 2012-2013:
- 2.5mm Allen key.
- 24mm socket wrench.
- Procedure
- NOTE: For roadside belt swaps, particularly for an FX or FXS, setting the bike on its side should be possible for this work.
- However, no effective procedure has been described for the process.
- The following steps are suited to garage locations.
- Use a lift to raise the bike from the center.
- A sturdy wood crate may work in a pinch. Be safe.
- If the lift can be adjusted, lift the rear wheel just off the ground for ease of removal and replacement (lower than depicted but not in contact).
- Pull the wheel off (or slide it forward) by loosening the axle nut with a 27mm wrench.
- Pull off the rear tire fender by taking out the 4 hex bolts securing it with a 3mm Allen wrench.
- You can get away with removing only the left-side screws, to allow lifting the fender up enough to get the belt under.
- The right side fasteners also anchor the brake line to the rear calipers and a grounding strap, so mind them for re-attaching in the same way.
- Remove the brake pedal:
- This creates clearance for loosening the swingarm bolt above it (might be optional for pre-2015 models).
- Get the rear brake pedal out of the way of the right side swingarm pivot bolt.
- S platform: Use the 15mm hex socket to loosen or remove the bolt forming the pedal pivot.
- X platform:
- Remove the pin that attaches the brake pedal to the piston.
- Remove the two 13mm bolts that hold the grey piston bracket to the frame, and gently move the whole assembly to the left.
- X platform: To access the left swingarm bolt, remove the lower left passenger peg bolt (13mm) and remove the grey cover piece.
- Remove the left and right swingarm bolts.
- 2012-2013
- Remove the set screws from the swingarm bolts on both sides with a 2.5mm Allen wrench.
- The set screw is very difficult to find.
- It is located in one of the sides of the 24mm hex nut, perpendicular to the long axis of the 10mm allen bolts.
- It is actually on the edge of the nut.
- The best way to locate it is to use a small mirror and a strong flashlight.
- Then remove the bolts by holding the inside nut with a 24mm wrench, and a 10mm hex on the head.
- This was the hardest step, because there is not a lot of room to manipulate in the rear assembly - especially with a 24mm wrench!
- XU-2013
- sane as above, but needed a 23mm wrench and a 2mm Allen wrench instead of the 24mm wrench and 2.5mm allen wrench
- 2014+
- Remove the left and right swing arm bolts with a 10mm Allen wrench.
- Hang the swing arm with a strap on the tail section.
- The swingarm will pull back enough for the belt to fit through the frame.
- Check the front sprocket for debris, and clean it with a firm but non-abrasive brush.
- If the sprocket is damaged somehow or the teeth are too worn to engage the belt, get it replaced to avoid damaging the new belt.
- The rear sprocket regularly deserves the same treatment.
- Slide the belt over the front sprocket.
- Replace the swingarm bolts.
- Slide the belt over the rear sprocket.
- Set/adjust belt tension accordingly.
- Install the rear wheel
- Re-check belt tension and alignment.
- Re-install the rear brake pedal.
- Re-install the rear tire fender.
- Extend the sidestand, then lower the bike carefully from the lift onto the sidestand.
- References
- 2013 S Belt Replacement
- 2012 DS Belt Replacement, by User:DoctorBass
- Swingarm Bolt Set Screw?
- Facebook comments by Bobby Loo.
Sprocket
Sprocket Specifications
Belt | Front | Rear | ||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Width | Pitch | Years | Models | Teeth | Depth | Bore | Other | Teeth | Depth | Bore | Other | Ratio |
14mm | 8mm | 2012-2016 | SR | 30 | 15mm | 1" | key measurements? | 130 | 15mm | 1" | 4.33:1 | |
FX/FXS | 25 | 132 | 5.28:1 | |||||||||
S/DS/DSR | 28 | 130 | 4.64:1 | |||||||||
2017-2018 | S 13.0 | |||||||||||
17mm | 11mm | FX/FXS/DS/DSR/SR/S6.5 | 20 | 17mm | spline measurements? | 90 | 17mm | 4.50:1 | ||||
2019 | S/DS/SR/DSR/FX/FXS |
Sprocket Wear On Belt
Wear debris from the tire or the road can accumulate on sprocket teeth, putting pressure on the belt which can wear it out faster.
- Recommendation
- Keep the sprocket teeth clean to minimize wear on the belt.
- A non-abrasive brush should be effective.
Front Sprocket Removal / Swap
Removing or replacing the front sprocket on S and X platforms.
- Video Guide
Some guidance from Terry in this motor removal thread:
- Basically, if you are doing this to try to get more acceleration by moving from a 28 tooth to a 25 tooth, Harlan recommends trading in the DS on a 2015+ SR or 2016 DSR if you need the off road capabilities. You will get much much more acceleration and not hurt your top end performance.
- On the drive belt side, the upper rear 5mm bolt takes extreme care to remove. It is tapered to locate the motor. There is a very strong chance of stripping the head and have to drill it out. Make sure to have a machine shop close by just in case.
- On the other hand, removal of the motor may not be necessary.
- The other 7 bolts, 3 on the sprocket side and 4 on the rear brake side are the only thing simple and straight forward.
- You will need a special 3" or longer 6mm allen head socket for sticking in the hole through the frame at the front of the motor.
- Remove the rear brake pedal and assembly to get the heel guard out of the way of the top right rear motor bolt.
- Be careful not to strip these bolts either.
- They have Loctite; use a torch.
- And make sure your local hardware store has these replacement bolts handy in case you have to drill them out.
- The rear brake pedal needs to move anyway to get the right swingarm bolt out.
- Also the sprocket bolt itself, as well as removing and installing the new sprocket on the shaft can be very difficult. Some of the best professionals have had trouble.
- Loctite has been used on everything and you will need a torch to remove them.
- Even so, you will need a strap wrench with an old belt as the strap to hold the sprocket and a high power impact wrench.
- Even with all that right, you have a chance of stripping or breaking the bolt. The sprocket is pressed pretty tight.
- Be very careful not to permanently damage the motor bearings by prying between the motor itself and the sprocket to try to remove it, and also by tapping with a hammer to try to fit the new one on. You will be tempted to do both, but you need to find another way.
- A gear puller would be much better.
- There are other things to watch for:
- Mark your phase leads and pay special attention to the routing.
- Don't over-tighten the motor jack nuts and bolts until you have the swingarm back in place as it can pull the frame together slightly making it impossible to get the swingarm in place.
- Make sure you unplug the 8 way motor encoder harness and it doesn't get yanked and pull a wire.
- The top shock mounting bolt is a 15 and 17 mm and can be done with ratchet wrenches 1/32 of a turn at a time, or without ratchet wrenches if you are known to have extreme patience. It can take a while. The 2014 is a little easier and is (seems to be a) dual 17mm bolt and nut.
- The swingarm bolts are 10mm allen head and can be extremely hard to relocate even when working with someone else, a rubber hammer, and a flashlight. Those who have replaced their own belt before can vouch for this.
- Again, I doubt too many on this forum have done this, and those who did I'll bet agree with me that it makes more sense after they did it and perhaps had their bike out of commission to work through the things that didn't go right, and would agree to just upgrade to the SR or DSR first vs trying to change the front sprocket.
- Also the 25 tooth sprocket will break belts easier as less teeth are engaged than the 28 tooth, which can make it more likely to sheer teeth in the event of a wheelspin, and it bends the belt at a sharper radius which can possibly fatigue the carbon strands more. The SR actually uses a 30 tooth front sprocket which is even nicer to the belt than the 28 tooth.
Brakes
Zero motorcycles so far have had single-disc brakes for front and rear systems.
It is only a question of time when Zero will add dual front disk brakes in the road bikes range. Single disk is not recommended for the kind of speeds/overall weight the new models are reaching.
- Rear Brake Spring (Suggestion)
- Remove the rear brake spring or replace it with a lighter spring.
- On most models, there is a spring suitable for a dirt bike that is over-designed for a street bike.
- There is a kind of spring inside the brake pump, so the external one is just to keep the foot-pedal without rattling.
- Test the rear brake after doing this.
Brake Maintenance
- Check for pad wear or debris.
- Keep the pads and discs clean.
- An occasional brushing of the disc holes is worth doing maybe once a year.
- Check hydraulic fluid level.
- Make sure the brake fluid is in good shape and the type/specs you need.
- If in doubt, replace with fresh fluid (not from an already opened bottle).
- Make sure the brake fluid reservoir is not over-filled (top).
- There has to be some empty space, or your bike will be lightly "braked" and your disk/pads will deteriorate prematurely...and you will get less range.
Brake Systems
Front | Rear | ||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Year | Manufacturer | Rotor | Caliper | Manufacturer | Rotor | Caliper | Notes |
2013 | Nissin |
|
Nissin | 221mm ⌀
|
relatively weak
J Juan upgrade available for rear brake. | ||
2014 | J Juan | 240mm ⌀ |
|
Same pad sizes as 2013. | |||
2015 | J Juan |
|
|
Bosch Gen 9 ABS; New pad sizes. | |||
2016 | Bosch Gen 9 ABS | ||||||
2017 | |||||||
2018 | |||||||
2019 | |||||||
2020 |
Brake Hydraulics
Models | Front | |||
---|---|---|---|---|
Platform | Years | Caliper Piston Area | MC Piston Area | Hydraulic-Advantage Ratio |
S | 2015 | 1509 mm² (total) | 126 mm² | 11.9:1 |
2016 | ||||
2017 | ||||
2018 | ||||
2019 | ||||
2020 |
- Regarding Brake Upgrades:
- A 9.5mm-piston master cylinder - like the Nissin 3/8 I put on my 'MX' bike - would give the SR a 21.1:1 ratio, or @ 78% more pad pressure than the OEM 12.7mm master cylinder.
- Any Brembo, Nissin, etc. 9.5mm / .375" master cylinder w/switch should drop right in and make a huge difference, and you won't have to touch anything else.
- On the rear, the 11mm master cylinder from the FX (Zero part# 25-06731) has 49mm M6 bolt spacing / rear reservoir hose / top output / clevis, and should give @ 19% more pad pressure than the SR 12mm master cylinder.
- This won't be a night-and-day difference like the front master cylinder change, but it should still be very noticeable.
Rear Brake Actuator
The rear brake is manipulated by a dirt-bike style pedal around the right footpeg, a common motorcycle configuration.
- The rear brake has its own master cylinder behind the rear footpeg on the right.
- Pedal Construction
- Cast aluminum with a powder coat finish.
- On pre-2015 models, the pedal is made from a single piece.
- On 2015+ models, the pedal toe actuator is bolted on (M6X20-8.8) and may be replaced or have an S vs DS toe actuator swap.
- Rear Brake Switch
- The rear brake switch is activated hydraulically by pressure in the rear brake system.
- The rear brake switch is built into top banjo bolt.
- Rear Brake Pedal
- The threaded rod from the brake lever to the master cylinder adjusts lever height.
- Rear Brake Pedal Adjustment
- The rear brake pedal is adjustable at the clevis.
- Remove the pin.
- Loosen the actuator shaft locknut above the clevis.
- Grip the shaft firmly with (say) long heavy-duty needle-nose pliers.
- Rotate the shaft back toward the rear of the bike to lower the pedal foot (or towards the front to raise the pedal foot), repeating as needed.
- References
- Re: [2016 FXS Rear brake light comes on way too late]
- Is there an adjustable pedal brake lever?
- Rear Brake Pedal mods
ABS System
2015+ models have a Bosch ABS system installed.
ABS Unit
ABS Wheel Sensors
Brake Pads
- General Reading Material
- Top 10 Questions About Motorcycle Brake Pads
- Motorcycle Brake Pads & Rotors Explained, by Galfer USA
- Sintered vs Organic Brake Pads
- General Brake Pad Replacement Suggestions
- 2013+: Try to not use synthetics pads or "sintered", but organic or semi sintered ones.
- Sintered are better for very aggressive riding/braking, but are generally noisier.
- 2012 and earlier: Keep the sintered pads
- Brake pump is very weak on these models; you need all the braking power you can get in spite of noise.
- Sand the pads.
- Grease the back of the pads lightly with ceramic grease (copper grease can interfere with ABS sensors).
- Check caliper position.
- Check caliper springs, if any.
- Check the wheel for trueness.
- Sand the disk; it could have lightly crystalized.
- Make sure all the bolts in the system (including wheel) are properly tightened.
- After all of this has been preformed and before riding, clean everything exposed to dirt/grease with isopropyl alcohol
- When riding again, try to not brake very aggressively the firsts 20-30 miles.
Brake Problems
- Squeak
- Brake squeak (pad front against the disc) happens occasionally and is relatively quiet and noticeable but not anomalous.
- Squeal
- Brake squeal (pad back resonating against caliper cylinder) can be very loud and annoying. Squeal does not technically impact performance but it's very unpleasant and might cause the rider to hesitate before fully braking which is a safety issue.
- Solutions
- Clean the pads and/or discs for squeaking.
- Try a different brake pad (attractive if you want a different pad feel or performance in the first place).
- LocTite Disc Brake Quiet stick applicator for the backs of the pads.
- Chamfer the brake pads
- File the edges of the pad to put a 45 degree edge on them
- You only need 1-2mm
Brake Pad Fit
- Nissin (2013 on rear, and 2013/2014 front)
- J Juan (2014+ on rear, 2015+ on front)
- Front pad shape FDB892
- Rear pad shape FDB539
Past forum threads of highly varying quality / ability to clarify:
- This forum discussion starts with the 14FX and brings up lots of issues.
- Another forum thread on brake pad alternatives to OEM/stock.
- One exhaustive listing from Burton which unfortunately have the wrong EBC fitment numbers.
- EBC
- The EBC brake catalog covers Zero models.
- However, it has always had the wrong shape recommendation for 2013-2014 models, and for the FX entirely! Double-check any recommendation.
- Their Carbon X pads can eliminate front brake squeal. EBC Carbon X page
- SBS
- offers a brake search engine which covers Zero models.
- Goldfren
- offers a good cross reference between brands.
- Brembo
- Brembo's Motorcycle Brakes Configurator has reasonably usable Zero model lookup.
- Their Carbon Ceramic pads are reported to resolve brake squeal issues.
Year | Models | Wheel | Stock | SBS | EBC | Brembo | Galfer |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2010-2012 | S/DS | Front | SFA264 | 708 HF | FA264 | N/A | 188 |
X/XU/MX | |||||||
2013 | S/DS/FX/MX/XU | Nissin TT2508HH sintered-metal |
694 HS | FA185 | 07KA17 | 164 | |
2014 | S/DS/SR | ||||||
FX | |||||||
2015-2020 | S/DS/SR/DSR | 674 HS | FA209 | 07BB03 | 172 | ||
FX/FXS | 671, 742 | FA181 | 138 | ||||
2010-2012 | S/DS | Rear | 544 HF | FA83 | 07KA07 | 094 | |
X/XU/MX | |||||||
2013 | S/DS/FX/MX/XU | Nissin TT2182FF | 790 LS | FA367 | 07YA41 | 286 | |
2014 | S/DS/SR | 675 HS | FA208,FA213 | 07BB02 | 165 | ||
FX | Galfer FD093 G1651 semi-metallic |
604 | FA131 | 147 | |||
2015-2020 | S/DS/SR/DSR | 675 HS | FA208,FA213 | 07BB02 | 165 | ||
FX/FXS |
- References
- Honda / Nissin front brake shoes; goodbye screech, hello stoppies
- 2015 FX Brake Pads?
- Brake pads for 2014 SR
- Brake pads for 2015 FX, 2016 FXS
Front Brake Pad Replacement
See Brake Pad Lookup to ensure a brake pad match.
![]() | Avoid touching the pad and rotor surfaces with sharp tools and anything dirty or greasy. Avoid applying one-sided pressure to the rotor. |
- 2013-2014 S-platform
- Actual bike used was a 2014 SR (Nissin 313mm). Likely applicable to S/DS/DSR.
- Tools
- 13mm hex socket
- Torque wrench
- 4mm Allen key
- Size 1 flat head screwdriver
- Sandpaper
- Brake cleaner
- Ceramic grease (copper grease can interfer with the ABS sensors)
- Steps
- Clean the slave cylinder to prevent forcing damaging detritus into the seal.
- Gently force the brake pads away from the disk, to ensure room for the new pads, which will be thicker than the worn pads.
- Apply pressure evenly by hand or with a soft-surfaced tool.
- Pre-2015: Using the Size 1 flat blade screwdriver, remove the cap to expose the head of the pin.
-
Warning:
Penetrating oil may be necessary, and it's important to use the right size flat blade, as smaller ones can strip the slot as you apply pressure. -
Warning:
Rely on the caliper bolts' anchoring to the disc to ensure leverage.
-
- Remove the pin using a 4mm Allen key.
-
Warning:
Rely on the caliper bolts' anchoring to the disc to ensure leverage.
-
- Remove the 13mm hex bolts holding the caliper to the fork bracket.
- Remove the caliper from the brake disc; inspect and clean.
- It may be possible to change the brake pads without removing the calipers from the disk, but removal is more thorough to check for wear and keep it clean.
- Remove the plate with the brake pads, inspect and clean, and put in fresh pads.
- Apply ceramic grease to the slave cylinders and sand the front surface of the pads.
- Re-install the pin through the brake pads to anchor them in place.
- Apply a drop of blue Loctite to prevent it coming loose.
- Re-install the calipers against the rotor:
- With the pads separated sufficiently, slide the caliper over the front disc.
- Align the caliper mounting holes with the fork bracket and thread the 13mm hex bolts to hold in place.
- Apply some blue Loctite to each caliper mounting bolt and tighten with the 13mm hex socket to the right torque (2014+: 19ft-lb, 2013: 12ft-lb).
- Pre-2015: Using the Size 1 flat blade screwdriver and a drop of blue Loctite, re-install and tighten the cap over the head of the pin.
- Squeeze the front brake lever a few times to build up pressure in the hydraulics and press the pads up to the disc.
- Test the brakes
- Rotate the front wheel to check that the caliper doesn't impede the wheel.
- Roll the bike and test the brake lever action.
- If there are no obvious problems, gear up and slowly ride the bike to test the brakes.
- If possible, gradually increase the speed of the braking tests to seat and smooth the pads.
- Perform an initially very slow test ride (walking speed up to 25mph), checking brake function and ensuring they are seated and performing adequately.
- 2015+ S Platform
- Actual bike used was a 2016 SR
- Locate the bolt used to pin the low side of the brake pads.
- Remove the clip on the inside of the bolt.
- Detach the ABS wire from the brake line, by carefully unclipping the lower three fasteners holding the ABS wire to the brake line.
- Remove the bolt pinning the pads with a #25 Torx bit.
- Back out the caliper bolts with a 8mm hex bit on a 12-inch or longer wrench.
- Remove the caliper from the rotor.
- Complelely remove the caliper bolts and slide the caliper as far as possible off the rotor.
- With a flat screwdriver about 8-inches long, drop the inside pad out of the caliper.
- After the inside pad clears the caliper, remove the caliper.
- Temporarily hold the old pads against the pistons by loosely replacing the bolt that pins the pads.
- Fully push back the pistons, by using a C-clamp with at least 2x2-inch opening and 1-inch heads, clamping the old pads to the outside caliper body.
- Remove the clamp and old pads.
- Test fit the new pads.
- Insert the outside pad in the caliper.
- Hold the caliper against the rotor and insert the inside pad.
- Re-install the calipers against the rotor:
- Position the caliper to insert the caliper bolts, and tighten a little more than finger-tight.
- Carefully drive the pad-pinning bolt until it stops, and reinstall the inboard clip.
- Remove the caliper bolts one at a time, apply Loctite 242 or equivalent, and retighten.
- Torque the caliper bolts to 19 lb-ft (26 Nm).
- Re-attach the ABS wire to the brake line (via the 3 clips).
- Squeeze the front brake lever a few times to build up pressure in the hydraulics and press the pads up to the disc.
- Test the brakes
- Rotate the front wheel to check that the caliper doesn't impede the wheel.
- Roll the bike and test the brake lever action.
- If there are no obvious problems, gear up and slowly ride the bike to test the brakes.
- If possible, gradually increase the speed of the braking tests to seat and smooth the pads.
- Perform an initially very slow test ride (walking speed up to 25mph), checking brake function and ensuring they are seated and performing adequately.
Rear Brake Pad Replacement
- Tools
- T25 Torx bit screwdriver
- Flat blade screwdriver
- Small pliers
- 200 grit sand paper (optional)
- Remove safety spring-clip from the rear of the bolt (on the side of the wheel).
- Remove the bolt that goes through the "eye" of the brake pads (using #25 torx driver).
- Pull out the pads.
- If there's any debris like paint on the pad material, you may want to sand them flat/clean gently over some 200 grit sandpaper on a flat surface.
- Put in new pads.
- Screw-in the bolt.
- Reinstall safety clip.
- Test your ride carefully!
- References
- Per Rear Pad Replacement for J Juan rear brakes (2014+)
Powertrain
The powertrain includes all of Zero's power storage and delivery components including the battery, but this section focuses on the motor, power delivery via the controller, and their inputs via throttle and drive mode configurations.
- Licensing
- For a time, Zero openly offered powertrain components in a licensed manner for prototyping and other uses.
- Currently, probably for reasons of liability and support overhead, this is not publicly offered but does seem available on request for companies wanting to develop products where Zero's powertrain is a good fit.
- See Zero's Z-Force Powertrain Solutions page which has a contact form.
Throttle
The Zero throttle is a very straightforward twist-grip motorcycle control that operates a sensor instead of pulling on a mechanical cable or operating hydraulics.
Zero switched the throttle supplier from a Magura with a linear potentiometer to a Bitron with a Hall-effect sensor in 2015 which changed how the wiring works.
- Connections
- The Zero throttle connects directly to the controller, so anything you do related to the throttle signal can compromise the operation of the bike if there's an electrical fault or discrepancy.
- Example: Sudden braking followed by no motor/throttle response on highway[2016 FXS]
- Customization
- See Drive modes to customize throttle input interpretation as an owner.
- Use the mode control for "Custom" mode on 2014+ or "Eco" on earlier models to set the maximum torque the throttle applies.
- This also directly changes how quickly torque ramps up for a given throttle twist/position.
- Advanced Customization
- The Sevcon motor controller settings are where most of the throttle interpretation happens.
- Replacement
- TODO...
- Assembly
- The return spring cannot be tensioned while disassembled throttle is on the handlebar. Throttle must be removed to place the spring end correctly. see video from Harlan Flagg: https://www.facebook.com/harlanflagg/videos/1364143910276196/
- Troubleshooting
- One report of a "snatchy" throttle turned out to have this explanation:
- There is a black adjusting screw which holds the pinion gear of the throttle in place or for adjustment.
- The pinion gear had moved to the right and caused the spring clip for throttle return to pop out of the slot.
- This was clicking through the gears and causing a notchy throttle feel.
- Resolution: Reset the pinion location and tighten the screw.
Magura Throttle
The 2012-2014 stock throttle is a 5kOhm Magura throttle
- Basic details
- The Magura Twist Throttle has a 0-5kΩ output.
- Comes with matching grip for opposite side.
- 7/8" (22mm) handle bar fit
- 68" long control cable
- Weight: 0.5 lbs
- Connectors
- Three wire output directly to the controller.
Wire | Function | Destination | Illustration |
---|---|---|---|
Blue | Throttle High | Sevcon Pin 34 | ![]() |
Brown | Wiper | Sevcon Pin 22 (analog) | |
Orange/Black | Throttle Low | B- Sevcon terminal |
Bitron Throttle
2015+ models use a new HAL-based (Hall-effect active device) sensor from Bitron which can't be replaced easily by Domino or similar
- Product reference: Bitron HAL-based throttle
- Connectors
- Via Keith's investigation
- 8 wire output, bundled into two pairs of 3 wires for potentiometer outputs.
-
- Sumitomo connector 6188-0779
- Sumitomo connector 6189-1240
- The hall-effect sensor may be a potentiometer wired up as a voltage divider as follows:
Wire | Twist | Voltage |
---|---|---|
Brown | None | 0.5 |
Full | 4.5 | |
Brown/Red | None | 4.5 |
Full | 0.5 |
Regen
The Sevcon controller can enter a regeneration mode where it captures momentum from the motor and charges the battery.
- Operating Range
- Regen for Zeros operates between 12mph (where the motor cannot produce enough voltage to naturally power through the controller) and 4500 RPM (70mph in default gearing).
- This band can be adjusted in MBB settings.
- Level
- Regen levels are defined/set in terms of percentage of maximum allowable levels, so 0-100%.
- That 100% maps to a 40A recharge limit setting in the Sevcon controller, equivalent to 10% of the maximum discharge rate of a Gen4 size 4 controller.
- The 100% setting also corresponds to 60% of the 72Nm torque limit also specified.
- The recharge limit may be set up to 91A via Sevcon setting or higher by a dummy value (65535?).
- Zero sets regen levels to preclude rear wheel lockup, so raising the limit is a risk that ABS cannot directly control.
- Regen has the same effect for SR/DSR models as for S/DS.
- Efficiency
- The recharge efficiency of regen is typically that 10% of the energy used to climb an incline can be returned on the corresponding descent.
- Triggers
- Normal regen is triggered by relaxing the throttle.
- There is a position just above the resting position where an actual neutral torque is achievable.
- The MBB has a setting in mV for the potentiometer output of the throttle to trigger regen.
- Adjusting this is not normally effective unless changing throttle types.
- Brake regen is triggered by the same signal that turns on the brake light:
- A contact switch against the front brake lever will engage the brake light (and regen); the hydraulic piston and the switch engage simultaneously by default.
- Rear brakes engage pad contact and the brake light (and regen) simultaneously, but require some amount of travel before they engage.
Drive Modes
The Zero platform has always offered a simple control for switching throttle and regen mappings through MBB-Sevcon interaction.
- 2009-2013
- Through 2013, only Eco and Sport modes were available, where Eco was the customizable mode but had the Eco default as listed below.
- The modes are selected with a rocker switch on the left part of the steering head bracket forward from the handlebars.
- 2014-
- 2014 models introduced a separate Custom mode and made Eco mode fixed.
- Modes are selected by pressing a selector button on the right hand switch assembly; the selected mode then activates when the throttle is released for a couple of seconds.
Mode | Max Speed | Max Torque | Max Regen | Max Regen Brake |
---|---|---|---|---|
Eco | 70 mph | 40% | 66% | 100% |
Custom | 70 mph | 100% | 40% | 66% |
Sport | 98 mph | 100% | 40%? | 66%? |
- Customization
- Many riders make their own Custom mode settings. There are many options that all involve tradeoffs.
- 0% (-20%) Max Regen
- This enables a "coasting" mode which is very efficient, in allowing the rider to let the bike's momentum carry it forward for a while.
- This also helps transition the bike from accelerating to decelerating, since the regen levels come on in a step-wise fashion, which minimizes the dive on the suspension by providing an intermediate step.
- NOTE: This has one disadvantage at 0%: in extremely low traction scenarios, this can lead to dangerous fishtailing where the rear wheel starts to slip, in that it can be very difficult to slow it down.
- 100% Max Brake Regen
- Most riders seem to leave this setting at 100% in order to get the most out of their rear brake.
- Lower Top Speed (60 or 70mph, say)
- This creates a "poor man's" cruise control, where the throttle has no effect at the top end, only ensuring that a specific speed is met.
- This can be useful when trying to get a maximum or ensured amount of range.
- Lower Max Torque (30% or less)
- This can be useful in wet or reduced traction conditions.
- Torque setting is mostly about the torque ramp rate (how much torque achieved with a given amount of throttle twist).
- By reducing the ramp rate, the onset of a loss of traction is much easier to control and recover from.
- Most riders just switch to Eco mode in the rain, but using Custom mode for this can also be effective.
Motor
All of Zero's motors are air-cooled and mounted on a shaft that is aligned with the front pivot of the swingarm so that transmission tension is perfectly aligned with swingarm movement.
Brand | Designation | Years | Models |
---|---|---|---|
Agni/Saietta | 95-R alt | 2009-2011 | S/DS/X/MX |
Motenergy | ME0810 | 2011-2012 | X/MX |
ME0913 | 2012 | S/DS | |
Z-Force | 75-5 | 2013 | FX/MX/XU |
2014-2015 | FX | ||
2016 | FX/FXS | ||
75-5 (IPM) | 2017 | FX/FXS/S ZF6.5/DS ZF6.5 | |
75-7 | 2013-2016 | S/DS/MMX | |
75-7 (IPM) | 2017 | S/DS/MMX | |
75-7R | 2014-2015 | SR | |
75-7R (IPM) | 2016-2017 | SR/DSR |
Agni Motor
- From 2009 to 2012, Zero used brushed DC Agni/Saietta 95-R motors.
- These have known quality issues after time and Zero offers many owners a Z-Force motor upgrade or complete trade-in for remaining 2014 models.
- Basic Facts
- Shaft ⌀19mm
- 6mm keyway
- Chain Specs
- 420 chain specs: .500" pitch / .3125" roller diameter / .250" roller width / .227" sprocket width.
- #41 sprocket teeth will engage 420 chain links, but they're made for .306" dia. rollers and a #41 sprocket / 420 chain combo will wear quickly.
- Some sprocket places sell '41/420' sprockets, but there's no such thing.
Z-Force Motor
- For the 2013+ models (Gen2 and Gen3), Zero has their own motor design, trademarked "Z-Force".
- Features
- Sealed
- Air-cooled (via finned casing)
- Brushless
- Permanent-magnet rotor
- Operation
- It is a 3-phase brushless DC (BLDC) electric motor which is roughly described as a permanent magnet AC synchronous (PMAC) motor since the controller is continuously adjusting the phase angle of the field to the rotor's current position and speed.
- The field must apply synchronously to the rotor, so the calibration between the position sensor and the controller is critical for efficiency, minimizing wear on the bearings, and minimizing heating of the windings and magnets.
- Motenergy's Clone
- Motenergy makes an unlicensed generic derivative, the ME1507, of the same form factor, rated for much lower outputs and seems to differ from Zero's motor in key ways.
- From Motenergy's ME1507 product page, it's clear that they're advertising a model on par with the 2016 IPM update:
The ME1507 is an Radial Air Gap, Permanent Magnet Synchronous Motor (PMSM) with an Internal Permanent Magnet Rotor (IPM). Designed for battery pack voltages of 100 VDC or less. Maximum rotor speed of 6000 rpm. Continuous current of 200 amps, and continuous power of 17 kw. Weight of 44 pounds.
- Motor theory
- IPM vs SPM for a different motor control regime but some principles translate to the Z-Force motor.
- Efficiency
- forum thread
- Range vs Speed by Patrick Truchon discusses the theory and measurements in depth.
- Does Gear Size Affect Range? by Patrick Truchon with more theory!
Z-Force Motor 75-5
The XMX Platform uses the 75-5 variant of the Z-Force Motor.
- The -5 suffix indicates a 5cm extruded width.
Z-Force Motor 75-7
The SDS Platform uses the 75-7 variant of the Z-Force Motor.
- The -7 suffix indicates a 7cm extruded width.
Z-Force Motor R-Variant
The 75-7R motor follows on the 75-7 in 2014 with high-temperature magnets.
- These require Sevcon Gen4 size 6 controllers to deliver more current and torque
- SR (2014+) and DSR (2016+) models use these motors.
Z-Force Motor IPM Update
In 2016, Zero introduced an interior permanent magnet (IPM) design as distinguished from a surface permanent magnet (SPM) design of the original motor introduced in 2013.
- An IPM design places the rotor magnets in physical slots within its circumference, instead of binding the magnets to the rotor's circumference via special epoxies.
- The IPM design reduces the heating associated with developing magnetic flux and distributes the heat produced more evenly.
- This allows the motor to operate at higher outputs while producing less heat overall and concentrating heat production where it dissipates more easily.
- In practice, this avoids hitting thermal limits which require cutbacks to protect the motor windings.
- Controller Programming Note
- The IPM design motor apparently involves custom Zero programming of the Sevcon controller for the encoder, so off the shelf DVT software cannot perform alignment/commissioning but can apply settings / DCF files and restore them.
- Production / Rollout
- 2016 models S/DS/SR/DSR/FXS have the IPM design.
- FX and S/DS models with a 3-brick battery retained the SPM design (presumably to be phased out with inventory).
- As of 2017, statements from Zero indicate that once the IPM motor design was in production, SPM motor production ceased, and all replacements of SPM motors would use IPM motors.
- References
- Zero livestream announcing 2016 upgrades
- Zero livestream presentation with Ryan Biffard about the Z-Force motor IPM upgrade
Z-Force Motor Mount/Torque Update
In 2017, the Sevcon controllers were updated ("4.5" is the unofficial revision) to support more current to the motor.
- The Drive Belt was also reinforced and widened to apply more torque through the transmission and be more robust against interference.
- Accordingly, the motor shaft is now splined instead of keyed so the motors and sprockets are not compatible across the 2016-2017 year-line.
Z-Force Motor 75-10
The FST Platform/Gen3 uses the 75-10 variant, which has a new construction in addition to being wider.
- Cooling ridges run along the circumference of the cylinder rather than axially parallel to the shaft.
- These ridges align with directional airflow from under the frame where the motor controller enclosure guides it.
- The construction therefore is no longer an extrusion as in previous casings.
- Possibly there are lathe-like methods involved in machining.
- The finish in the first model with the motor is bronze, probably indicating something about an alloy change.
- -10 suffix indicates 10cm length.
- Features
- The motor encoder position sensor is now housed in a servicing-accessible enclosure, opposite the shaft, on the right side.
- The motor mounts are now more structural, joining the swingarm to the rear of the main frame.
- TODO review for a better structural description.
Motor Mounting
On the motor there are 8 M8 bolts holding the motor in place: 4 on the drive side, 4 on the rear side.
- Those bolts only have about 12Nm of torque on them.
- References
- Burton's 2013 to 2014 motor swap thread shows the most detail about the physical mounting of the motor.
Motor Removal
- Tools
- M8 Allen socket
- Torque wrench
- Steps
- Perform a lockout on the powertrain.
- Remove the swingarm.
- First you have to remove the swing-arm (that is pretty straight forward) some big bolts in the pivot and disconnet the shock.
- You can leave the brake lines attached and just move the swingarm out of the way when the motor needs to come out.
- Unplug the sensor connector near the front of the contoller on the riders right side of the bike.
- Un-bolt the 3 phase leads to the motor controller.
- It's a good idea to insulate them just in case the bike is powered on.
- Disconnect the motor from the bike.
- On the motor there are 8 M8 bolts holding the motor in place: 4 on the drive side, 4 on the rear side.
- Those bolts only have about 12Nm of torque on them.
- Once you have the motor disconnected and un-bolted from the frame, it should slide out towards the back.
Motor Bearing Replacement
- Tools
- C-clip pliers
- M10 tensioner
- Loctite 648
- Hub puller (to extract the bearings)
- Replacement bearings (front and rear are both 6006-2RS on an FX used below)
- Steps
- Remove the motor
- Once you have the motor out of the bike, you can pull it apart.
- It is actually quite easy to pull apart, but requires a lot of force.
- You can built a little chair (width of the plate, you put it on the cooling wings) with an M10 tensioner.
- Then you bolt an M10 eye-bolt on the pulley so you can pull on the shaft really hard (about 200lbs), and the rotor will pull out on the shaft along with the drive plate and bearings.
-
Warning:
Once you have the shaft and rotor out, be careful as it is highly magnetic and you can get your fingers pinched quite easily on it. - At that point, I found that the rotor is loose on the shaft.
- You have to remove the rear bearing, remove the c-clip holding the rotor laminations on the shaft, use a marker or something to mark the front and back of the rotor and how it is aligned on the shaft because you are going to take it off.
-
Warning:
It is important that it goes on in the exact same direction, otherwise the motor could spin backwards.
- Once you have the rotor and the shaft labeled so you can get them back together exactly the same way, slide the rotor laminations off the shaft.
- Clean the shaft and the inside of the laminations.
- Apply a lot of loctite 648 on the shaft and lamniations, then slide them back together.
- Ensure that they go together the same way that they were before, and that the loctite 648 gets well-distributed between the shaft and the laminations to make a solid bond.
- Put the c-clip back on, put the bearing back on (or put a new bearing on since removing a bearing without damaging it is quite hard, the front and rear bearings are both 6006-2RS).
- When you put the new bearing on, make sure you just push on the inner race for the press fit, if you push on the outer race it will transfer the force through the balls and likely damage them.
- The bearing should be a press fit, if it slips on or off easily, you should glue it on with the loctite 648.
- Let the 648 cure for a few hours before putting the motor back together.
- To put the motor back together, just do the same thing you did to pull it apart, but opposite.
- Ensure that the wave-spring is still in the bottom of the bearing pocket at the bottom of the motor.
-
Warning:
Be careful to not let the rotor slam back into place, that could damage the bearing - Make sure you control the rotor: use the little chair and unscrew the tensioner to let the magnetic forces pull it back in slowly.
- Once it is almost all the way in, the bearing will catch on the bearing pocket.
- At that point, it might take a little jiggling around and some force on the end of the shaft to get it to pop into place, then it could take a bit more force to get the drive-plate to re-engage with the stator case.
Motor Shaft
- Pre-2017
- The motor shaft is keyed; the key has a square cross section.
- Measurements
- Dimensions seem to be ¼” square ⨉ 2.0” length (expressed in metric on drawings).
- Ends 5mm from shaft end.
- Shaft diameter is ⌀28.275mm+0-0.021
- Shaft length extends 66.675mm beyond the motor face minus 4mm for raised parts of the face.
- 2013 models had a minor recall about the shaft key coming loose, but this was a design revision that has not recurred.
- 2017+
- The motor shaft is splined to allow higher torque transmission.
- Rumor has it (via Harlan at Hollywood Electrics) that the spline is supposed to match a Kawasaki KX250F as well as a Yamaha YZ450F.
Motor Sounds
Motor Whirring
The motor on 2013+ models makes a white noise sound at very slow speeds when rotated (by the wheels or shaft).
- This is also described as a "whirring sound".
- This is alluded to by the term "cogging".
- This is normal as long as it sounds like white noise and occurs as described below.
- Video Guide
- Strange noise Zero DS 2017 provides a reference for comparison:
- Related Confirming Symptoms
- The noise should only occur while the motor is rotated by external input (pushing the bike around or rotating the shaft).
- The noise should not while under power (when the motor is driving its own rotation).
- The bike should gently resist being pushed while the noise is audible.
- Causes
- The direct cause is the controller applying a white noise field to the motor at very slow speeds.
- At least one connected battery's contactor must have been engaged for this to occur.
- This can occur while keyed on, or while charging.
- Effects
- There are no detrimental effects, when the sound occurs by design.
- The purpose is for the controller to detect and maintain precise knowledge of the motor's rotor angle.
- This ensures that, if the throttle demands operation, the controller will apply the field correctly to the rotor.
- You may infer that at least one contactor is engaged to power the controller.
- If the bike is keyed on, you may infer that the motorcycle should be ready to drive.
- (aside from the kickstand and kill switch safety interlocks).
Motor Whine
- While moving, the motor tends to make a solid smooth tone resonant with the RPMs the motor is rotating at, usually noticeable around 15-30mph (30-50kph).
Motor Wiring
The Z-Force motor's stator is connected to the controller for power and position feedback.
3-phase / Y-shaped (120° phase offset) power inputs from the controller.
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8-pin Metri-Pack 150 (Mouser p/n 829-12047937)
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Motor Alignment
The back side of the motor (encoder side) has screw jack bolts that let you tweak the motor position. Mostly this is only needed when (re)installing the motor.
- Procedure
- Loosen the four M6 socket head screws.
- Adjust the portion of the silver nut that is not wedged into the slot on the motor.
Motor Commissioning
Motor commissioning refers to aligning the controller's sine wave programming against the motor using its position sensors.
- Benefits
- Maximum efficiency (avoids current applied wastefully)
- Avoid any slippage.
- Avoid misapplied torque which might wear on the bearings.
Motor Limits
The following regards what engineering constraints limit the power and RPM of the (IPM) Z-Force motor. Pre-IPM motors generated more heat for a given amount of power, so cooling was usually the first concern, but the IPM design pushes the frontier further so the topic is worth addressing.
- RPM
- The Z-Force motor is design-limited to 6,000 RPM as follows.
- RPM is primarily limited by the inductance of the motor windings.
- At low RPM, under full throttle, the current through the driven phase(s) of the motor ramps up from 0 to the maximum allowed by the controller pretty quickly, and you get full torque because you've got full current.
- But the faster the motor turns, the faster the motor controller has to cycle the phases of the motor on and off, and eventually, you reach a point where there's not enough time (because of the inductance of the motor windings) for the current to ramp up to maximum before that phase has to be turned off and the next phase cycled on.
- At that point, power starts to drop off, so very shortly after that, the motor won't have enough torque or power left to drive the load.
- The mechanics of the motor could easily have been designed for higher RPM, but there's no point since you'll be current-limited anyhow.
- Torque / Power
- The easiest way to get more torque, and thereby more power (since power is proportional to torque times RPM), is to pump more current through the motor.
- Several things can bottleneck that effort:
- First, the motor windings have a DC resistance because they're copper wires with fixed gauges and lengths.
- The bike's wiring external to the motor also has some DC resistance in it.
- If you apply more voltage to a fixed DC resistance, you'll get more current, but the batteries only give you ~110VDC to play with....and of course, the battery has a current limit of its own.
- You'll need to be sure the controller can handle the current as well; you won't go very fast once you smoke the controller.
- Since the motor rotates and therefore the windings have to be commutated (driven on and off in the proper sequence and speed), the motor's inductance also comes into play as discussed above about RPM.
- You could change some of this stuff fairly easily (higher-gauge wiring is pretty simple, though might be tough to fit in some of the tight confines the Zero's wiring is routed through), but other things are more difficult.
- To reduce the motor winding's DC resistance, you'd want to use heavier wire, but you wouldn't be able to get as many turns onto the same coil form.
- Fewer turns would create less inductance, which also helps allow higher current levels, but fewer turns also results in a weaker magnetic field for the same current, so you might actually reduce the torque the motor puts out.
- Then you'd also need to be sure you don't over-current the controller, or the batteries, and cooling everything involved becomes an additional topic.
- It's kind of like asking what's the highest VO2 max an athlete can put out.
- It's not just about his lungs, it's about his heart, his muscles, his metabolism at a microscopic level, even about his mental attitude.
- Tweak any one thing and the system's whole balance shifts.
- That's why engineers make the medium-sized bucks!
- Speed
- Vehicle top speed can only be altered by the gearing (sprocket ratios).
- Power output is not affected by gearing; only torque is.
- So, a ratio yielding a higher top speed will result in lower torques throughout the range, resulting in slower accelerations from start.
- References
- What is the limit of a Zero motor?
Controller
This takes power from DC battery bus, encoding three-phase sine waves to match the motor's position sensor to apply torque precisely to the motor.
- The power is applied to the motor in synchronization with the current speed and position of the rotor.
- Controller alignment (motor commissioning) is the process of tuning all of this for maximum efficiency and to avoid any slippage.
Controller Operation
The controller is a switching MOSFET power supply that creates 3 phased sine wave outputs to drive the motor via Pulse-width modulation (PWM).
- The switching attempts to produce a smooth sine wave to each output terminal via Space vector modulation strategy of PWM.
- The motor has 3 stator (casing-embedded) windings at 120° equally spaced offsets around the circumference.
- Each winding pulls from one motor terminal's output from the controller.
- Each winding electromagnetically pulls on the rotor.
- The forces need to balance out, not leading to a net lateral force on the rotor and shaft.
- It also shouldn’t precess or wobble or slip.
- The process of making the sine waves is “encoding”.
Controller Alignment
Alignment is the calibration of the controller sine wave production to match the controller output to the motor's position precisely.
- This is performed once/first by Zero's motor commissioning process and then repeated later as a recalibration.
- It should generally be performed periodically as a preventative maintenance step.
The motor has sensors for encoder alignment to tell the exact angle of rotation of the rotor.
- If those sensors are inaccurate, encoding can be rough or fail entirely.
- The sensors are embedded within the motor so for owners they just compensate in the controller for the drift, or swap the motor if the signal is bad enough that the controller can’t work with it.
Controller Versions
Bike | Controller | Limits | |||
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Years | Models | Manufacturer | Model | Input Voltage | Phase Current |
2009-2011 | S/DS | Alltrax | AXE4855 refs: [8] [9] | 48V | 500A |
2012 | XU | Sevcon | Gen4 Size 2 | 120V | 220A |
S/DS | Gen4 Size 4 | 420A | |||
X/MX | Alltrax | AXE7245 refs: [10] [11] | 72V | 450A | |
2013-2016 | XU | Sevcon | Gen4 Size 2 | 120V | 220A |
S/DS/FX/FXS/MMX | Gen4 Size 4 | 420A | |||
SR/DSR | Gen4 Size 6 | 660A | |||
2017+ | S/DS/FX/FXS/MMX | Gen4.5 Size 4 | 550A | ||
SR/DSR | Gen4.5 Size 6 | 775A |
- 2017 “Gen4.5”
- 2017 models reference higher current ratings without publicized evidence of a Sevcon model change.
- These improvements seem to be in choosing MOSFETs with increased power switching efficiencies to allow higher continuous and peak current levels.
- “Gen4.5” has been a term heard describing these improvements.
- Gen4 Size 6 Controller