Kickstand Switch Replacement
From Unofficial Zero Manual
(Redirected from Kickstand Switch Removal)
This removes and replaces the kickstand sensor switch.
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- Notes
- Made using MY2016 SR, should apply to 2014+ S/SR and probably DS/DSR
- Parts
- HALL SENSOR SIDESTAND SWITCH ZERO P/N 45-02413-01 for ~$30 USD
- It looks like an Asahi Denso CE122 sensor used on some KTM bikes.
- Ensure it has a blue, pinkish red, and a black wire
- Tools
- 2.5mm Allen key (for switch)
- 3mm Allen key (for battery side cover)
- Side cutters for zip ties
- Long slender fingers to reach connector
- Steps
- Removal
- Ensure bike is powered off and contactor de-energized.
- Remove the three 3mm hex bit fasteners with plastic washers holding the left-hand plastic battery side cover on.
- Using a fine slotted head screwdriver, remove both upper and lower "bite clamps" on sheet metal on left side of battery.
- Cut zip ties attached to the bite clamps.
- Unfasten both 2.5mm hex bit fasteners securing old switch.
- Disconnect the old 3 wire switch's connector located above half-circle cutout on left side of battery.
- It has a white triangular female housing.
- It helps to lay on one's side and reach up along the battery wire management area/tray.
- Use one finger (left hand) to hold white, bike-side mating connector in place and take note of the side of the triangle containing the clip.
- It helps A LOT to push both sides of connector together before depressing retaining clip or pulling connector out.
- Replacement
- Connect 3 wire weatherproof connector to sensor connector.
- Take note of which side of the triangle connector for the new switch has the clip.
- Full-seating makes an audible click.
- Replace zip ties on the cable management bite clamps.
- Route the switch cable the same way (above frame cross member to not encounter as much road debris).
- Clean the switch mount of debris.
- Carefully hand-tighten fasteners in and out to clean threads and get a feel for not-cross threading them.
- Fasten the side switch in with both 2.5mm hex bit fasteners.
- It's a countersunk plastic housing, and soft aluminum mount.
- Don't over-torque!
- Ensure there is no strain on cable especially where it joins the sensor housing.
- This is a common place for it to break.
- You may want to place extra heatshrink insulation here to protect.
- Replace side cover.
- Do not over-torque or cross thread.
- Left-over parts
- The old sensor.