Difference between revisions of "Calex Charger Replacement"

Latest revision as of 18:53, 27 September 2018

This describes removing and replacing the Calex 1200 onboard charger.

Since some generations of Calex chargers seem to develop faults relatively often, being able to replace a charger on one's own might save someone a lot of grief who doesn't live near a dealer.

Video Guide

How to Remove the Zero's Onboard Charger by NewZeroLand on YouTube shows very clearly how to remove the charger from his Zero SR.

Notes

Adapted from these instructions.

Possibly JAE MX23A18NF1 or MX23A18NF3 for harness connection MX23A18SF1 (datasheet via Mouser)

Charging enable hack (by EMF user Liveforphysics)

Zero Charger Enable At Harness

Tools

• 3mm Allen key.

Steps

1. Unplug the motorcycle, and key it off. Wait for at least 10 minutes to ensure any residual charge has dissipated.
2. Remove the lower plastics.
3. Belly Pan Removal

   Unbolt the belly pan (2 rows of 4 3mm Allen head bolts on each side of the pan, and 2 smaller bolts) and remove it.

4. Unplug the wiring at the rear of the charger area.

   There are three plugs (looking left to right at the rear of the charger):

   • One on the AC end of things that's bolted to the bike (your charge plug)
   • The comms connector (enable signal, CAN comms etc...)
   • One plug on the DC side that goes up to the charge wiring harness.
   1. The comms plug just has a tab; push in the tab and pull that one out.

      Both of the other plugs are really difficult.

   2. Removing the DC plug.

      The plug is an Anderson SBS50-BRN, but it seems to be a narrower pin pitch with no center data pin set.

      The DC plug is located in front of the motor against the back side of the battery on the bike's right.

   3. The cables are tucked up between the battery and a frame member, so cut the zip ties (including the zip tie holding the plugs together) and pull the plastic zip-tie mount clips on the lower half of the cable going to the charger.
   4. Pull down on the charger side of the connector from the bottom while pulling up on the top connector.

      Sometimes this requires a "flesh donation" to the motor, so covering the motor with a rag would be smart.

   5. Pull the terminals out of the plug housing (see Anderson disassembly), and pull it down thru the hole between the motor and frame.
   6. Removing the AC plug.

      It loops up under the seat and is zip tied on in a handful of places.

      There are two small bolts on the backside that are difficult to reach, so use a decent set of hex drivers with handles.

   7. There is a fuse holder plug that connects the ground to (somewhere...).

      Squeeze some tabs to get the green locking piece out.

      Then squeeze more tabs to get the plug apart.

5. Now with the cables out, use the 3mm Allen key to loosen (but not remove) the 6 bolts on the tabs holding it up.
6. Remove the charger to the side (recommend the right side) by removing the 3 bolts on the side intended for removal.

   On removing the last bolt, support the charger so it doesn't fall out, and carry it to the ground or elsewhere.

7. Remove the remaining 3 bolts using the 3mm Allen key if not installing a new charger.

Assembly

• Assembly is the reverse of disassembly! Really.

Suggestion

You can extended the DC wires on the replacement Calex charger, and put the plug set sideways, and up higher to make it easier to get at.